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References: [ +from:jimmble@adelphia.net: 254 ]

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201. Re: Slave cylinder rod on viagra! (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 19:32:31 -0400; I see that all the time. People mistakenly think they can affect the release point of the clutch by lengthening the pushrod. (Usually seen on a car with a broken clutch fork pin)All it does is move t; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00043.html (8,072 bytes)
202. Re: Charging system on TR250 (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 12:32:51 -0400; It sounds as though you have a healthy alternator. The TR250 unit puts out JUST enough to power all your accessories. A battery with an internal short will suck all the power from your alternator an; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00080.html (10,054 bytes)
203. Re: head gasket (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 20:38:40 -0400; It sounds like you have the late block. It should take a gasket with a sealing ring around the inner circumference of the cylinders. The flat gasket won't work you. Don't use the wrong one. Sorry fo; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00114.html (7,497 bytes)
204. head gasket (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 00:24:29 -0400; That sounds right. All the late gaskets I have experience with have had a tab at the rear, though. Of course, I haven't bought one recently either. I just went and looked to be sure, and the gasket f; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00116.html (7,149 bytes)
205. Re: Bushing in tie rod lever? (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 16:27:08 -0400; If your old locknuts on the inner tie rods are rounded, you might think about replacing them. Other than that, you'll have everything that you need! (No additional bushings) There may or may not be; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00118.html (7,863 bytes)
206. Re: Turn signal cancellation (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:54:08 -0400; There is a possibility that Dick didn't cover that may cure your problem. The lower universal can be attached in the wrong position. I would park the car with the wheels straight ahead.... If your w; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00129.html (8,180 bytes)
207. Re: Turn signal cancellation (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:10:51 -0400; I'm bummed, no cherry. ;^( LOL Jim I position, be a; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00150.html (7,914 bytes)
208. Re: Found Trunk light switch - f/u question (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:54:46 -0400; Want a picture of the one in my garage? It is continuous. Maybe yours isn't. Until you look you are guessing. I wouldn't be surprised to see two different designs, BTW. I don't care much what the bo; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00226.html (9,047 bytes)
209. Re: Squealing front brakes (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:20:58 -0400; I have had good luck with the following method: 1. Ditch the shims. They don't seem to help. 2. coat the back of the pads with a silicone -like material called 'Disk brake quiet'. It is found at you; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00259.html (8,032 bytes)
210. Re: Early 4 speed to J-type O/D conversion (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 22:23:00 -0400; Yes, I've done it. I used trans mounts cut from a late TR6 frame, carefully welded into the early frame. A little trimming is then required on the early left trans mount to allow the J-type O/D sole; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00299.html (7,479 bytes)
211. Re: TR6 restoration book (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 04:31:59 -0400; Thanks for the review.... sounds like a good read! Jim -- Original Message -- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net> To: "Mike" <74@tr6world.com> Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00374.html (9,124 bytes)
212. Subject: Tr6 gauges (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 17:54:33 -0400; Roadster Factory will have the web and a Velcro kit. Don't use too much adhesive on the Velcro. Apply to both sides, let it dry, then install. Good luck, Jim; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00109.html (6,286 bytes)
213. Compression ratio. (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 05:08:02 -0400; It's not quite as cut and dried as taking off .110 or any other amount from your head. 1. You must first determine which of the 3 different heads you have on your car. 2. Remember that the head may h; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00118.html (6,910 bytes)
214. Re: Compression ratio. (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 17:41:12 -0400; My only concern is that all these cars are old enough to have been tampered with without the current owners knowledge. If you mill a head too far it is ruined. I'm not attacking you, Dick. Just tryin; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00152.html (8,766 bytes)
215. Re: Question about adjusting valve clearance (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 18:29:58 -0400; I've always done it by the Shop manual, 2 at a time. The chalk is a good idea. The biggest problem I find with valvetrain noise in TR6/ 250 cars is the wear on the rocker arms. You will get a groove; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00153.html (8,020 bytes)
216. Re: surrey top (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 18:32:51 -0400; A fiberglass surrey is a repro. has a surrey top rear window and soft top piece. The rear window frame appears to be made of fiberglass, is this an original, or is it a reproduction?? The actual wind; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00154.html (7,182 bytes)
217. Re: Clutch help! (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 18:35:44 -0400; Ummmm, isn't the piece that failed the original disk !!!??? I'm still sold on the Sachs pressure plate. I've had too many jobs come back with 'stock' pieces. Jim -- Original Message -- From: "Jim Dav; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00157.html (9,219 bytes)
218. Re: susp update (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 04:17:11 -0400; I recommend the shock kit from British Parts NW that has the gas rears. It's the easiest to install, and is by far the best design. It requires NO DRILLING to your body! My only concern with either k; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00184.html (8,217 bytes)
219. Re: susp update (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 20:52:04 -0400; Not a big difference in handling. The ride I think is better, but it's usually a case of replacing a pair of worn out levers with the new tubes, so it's a tough comparison. I have had trouble in the; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00189.html (10,258 bytes)
220. Re: Chicago-Cincinnati and back (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 07:17:14 -0400; Glad you had a good trip! About 13 years ago my wife and I drove our TR7 from NE Ohio to Norfolk VA and back......... the day after I finished swapping motors. I put one in from a parts car, and off; /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00195.html (13,442 bytes)

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