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Total 254 documents matching your query.

181. Corvair hubs (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 08:02:26 -0500
I know some of you racers are using Corvair hubs. Are you happy so far? I'm either going to weld the Corvair outer to a TR hub, or pay the BIG bucks for the aluminum hubs that are being made. I'm obv
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00092.html (6,785 bytes)

182. Re: PDWA (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:01:13 -0500
Sounds like a reasonable inexpensive alternative, Rex. Good thinking! Jim -- Original Message -- From: "Rex Townsend" <rrt@connectexpress.com> To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>; <jay_w
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00149.html (9,984 bytes)

183. Re: Brakes (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:15:03 -0500
I have to disagree with Brooks. Bench bleeding the master cylinder is always required on a new master cylinder. Whichever method you use to bleed the wheel cylinders, however is up to choice, albeit
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00150.html (10,799 bytes)

184. Re: differential (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 04:51:42 -0500
A 3.45:1 rear gear set is available. It came as standard in the European TR6's with P.I. Try Team Triumph 330-392-7176. Ask for Scott Harper. Richard Good has a kit to install a stronger limited sli
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00205.html (7,629 bytes)

185. Re: TR6 Interior (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:57:19 -0500
I would keep all your old clips that hold the door panels to the door. They often work much better than the new ones. My best advice on the rest is to save everything until you get the new stuff, the
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00287.html (7,294 bytes)

186. Re: Overdrive question (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:16:53 -0500
Off the top of my head, you'll need to include the O/D unit, tranny mainshaft, hydraulic pump cam with keyway and spacer, the solenoid, trans top cover with lockouts, adapter plate, and the drive fla
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00288.html (7,554 bytes)

187. Re: Starter relay and window seal question (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 23:50:26 -0500
Glad you are enjoying your TR. Welcome aboard! 1. The seals are most easily done if you can pull the door panels and drop the window glass down into the bottom of the door, although it can be done w
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00308.html (9,805 bytes)

188. Jumbled list messages (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 07:27:27 -0500
I apologize if my responses aren't timely, or seem to be repeating another member's comments. It seems my e-mail delivery has been sporadic and unreliable lately. Jim
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00311.html (6,310 bytes)

189. Re: exhaust recommendations??? (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:16:25 -0500
I had a TR6 with an ANSA exhaust on it once, and it was fantastic for fit and sound. I haven't seen them for years, though. I personally find the Monza to be too raspy, with an irritating droning res
/html/6pack/2001-11/msg00313.html (8,038 bytes)

190. Re: Rear Wheel Bearings (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 12:10:16 -0400
A noble sentiment, however RF would not be in trouble if they had not spent their profits on restaurants and children's books. When I place an order I need to get the parts NOW, not after the next co
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00189.html (8,112 bytes)

191. Re: Rear axel driveshaft (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 12:13:06 -0400
Your best bet is to find good used ones. I have sent back the new replacements for excessive slop. Are you sure the play isn't in the diff? The spider gear bushings deteriorate, then slop develops in
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00190.html (7,749 bytes)

192. Re: What's normal comp 4 TR6 (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 12:14:26 -0400
As long as they are uniform across the motor, both readings are fine. ask name of rmf3860.vcf]
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00191.html (7,860 bytes)

193. Re: Distributor Orientation (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:06:36 -0400
Dick is exactly right. ( I used to always get the bloody dist. drive in backwards the first time after a rebuild!) Jim Two be spark near filter.
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00247.html (8,057 bytes)

194. Re: Rhp Bearings (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:48:16 -0400
I've found the same thing to hold true with replacement bearings and synchros. I have a box of old bearings and synchro cups that came out of old boxes that I am saving for use in my own stuff. (Heav
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00251.html (10,074 bytes)

195. Re: Stumble, miss & hesitate (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:30:35 -0400
It sounds like the outer part of your crank pulley may have rotated on the rubber. Try checking the piston TIC location using a wire in the spark plug hole to verify the pointer location. Examine th
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00257.html (9,869 bytes)

196. Re: Puff o' smoke and a hi ho silver (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:03:24 -0500
One thing I'd add to Dick's comments is that a car burning oil that has synthetic in the crankcase emits a distinct pungent odor. You can smell the difference! Jim -- Original Message -- From: "Sally
/html/6pack/2001-10/msg00293.html (8,416 bytes)

197. Re: magic clutch (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:12:53 -0400
As I'm reading these posts a couple things come to mind. I have used the 'magic' components with good result............ I do always make sure that the pins are in place to prevent rotation of the th
/html/6pack/2001-09/msg00066.html (10,447 bytes)

198. Re: magic clutch (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:29:07 -0400
Yowsa, that looks ugly for only 5000 miles. Sounds like you may be on the right track with a return mechanism. I hope the ones I've done don't look like that! Maybe it should be called the Black Mag
/html/6pack/2001-09/msg00079.html (9,574 bytes)

199. Re: Halogen dash bulbs? (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:30:00 -0400
If my memory serves, those are 3w bulbs. You may very well fry the plastic near a hotter bulb in this application. I personally wouldn't try it. IMHO Jim other day, as let in that my like things
/html/6pack/2001-09/msg00108.html (8,936 bytes)

200. Re: Tie rod end solutions (score: 1)
Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 00:35:18 -0400
One more solution that will work great if you want to save your boots (which the 'pickle fork' will destroy) 1. Loosen your tie rod nut to a 1/4 inch gap between the steering arm and the nut. 2. Use
/html/6pack/2001-08/msg00018.html (8,646 bytes)

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