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41. Re: oil cooler thermostat (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 9:07:57 -0500; I would agree with Rick. I will be installing an oil cooler for my modified engine and do not plan on using a thermostat. The only rationale for this device is to close off the cooler path when the; /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00346.html (7,884 bytes)
42. Re: Ebay Bumper (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 22:10:01 -0500; Well, it all depends on just how bad you want it. Typically used bumpers complete with overriders go in the $150$200 range on eBay. Real nice complete examples might fetch $300 or so. Repros are over; /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00366.html (7,584 bytes)
43. Re: Shocks or levers on a tr250 (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:00:01 -0400; Hi Ron, Welcome to the list. It is a terrific resource for newbies and not so newbies alike, as well as an amusing source of entertainment at times. 8~) I guess going the shock conversion route comes; /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00268.html (10,247 bytes)
44. Re: Wiring diagram color. (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 11:44:11 -0400; According to my schematic there should be two light green/brown wires (LG/N), one purple (P) and one purple/red (P/R). There is no K coded color, or at least one that I cannot find referenced anywhe; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00002.html (6,872 bytes)
45. Re: TR250 Propeller shaft spline (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 13:51:21 -0400; There is a split steel washer in there that is keeping the two together. It's no easy to remove it and it looks like both the leather seal and the steel washer are not available anywhere, at least i; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00110.html (8,110 bytes)
46. Re: More U-Joint problems (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 02:42:17 -0400; Maybe "tapping" works for some, but I've never had that simple pleasure. Using a hammer or small steel mallet (not lead or plastic) cradle the yoke as shown in Bentley and just keep on smacking the; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00118.html (7,985 bytes)
47. Re: performance upgrade (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 02:36:34 -0400; If you can swing it, consider having the machine shop cut some material out of the flywheel, relatively inexpensive compared to a new alloy wheel, and use the rest of the funds for the head work. It; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00160.html (8,186 bytes)
48. Re: Last TR250? (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 20:09:47 -0400; I wondered the same thing when a fair unrestored 250 in the UK was on eBay, and upon asking about the commission number, was told CD8492L. The seller said the commission plate was clean and quite le; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00173.html (7,334 bytes)
49. Re: Strengthening the frame of a TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:38:52 -0400; Hi Carl, TR frames rust from the inside out and it is very likely that what you see on the outside is nothing compared to the inside. This is a very common problem from TR IRS frames and the best rem; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00198.html (8,668 bytes)
50. Re: Strengthening the frame of a TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:39:09 -0400; Hi Carl, TR frames rust from the inside out and it is very likely that what you see on the outside is nothing compared to the inside. This is a very common problem from TR IRS frames and the best rem; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00199.html (8,665 bytes)
51. Re: Strengthening the frame of a TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:39:36 -0400; Hi Carl, TR frames rust from the inside out and it is very likely that what you see on the outside is nothing compared to the inside. This is a very common problem from TR IRS frames and the best rem; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00200.html (8,665 bytes)
52. Re: Strengthening the frame of a TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:41:33 -0400; My apologies to the list...some odd Outlook behavior caused multiple; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00201.html (6,809 bytes)
53. Re: Wheel bearing racers (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 17:43:51 -0400; You should definitely, without question, replace the races when replacing the bearings. It's very simple to knock out the old race. Lay the rotor and hub assembly down and, with a bright light, look; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00320.html (9,094 bytes)
54. Re: Re: Wheel bearing racers (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 20:56:12 -0400; I believe it is just the migration of grease from the two bearings over time as its "spun" away from the bearings. The same reason the grease cap is full of grease. That's in part the reason why it; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00328.html (8,272 bytes)
55. Re: U-Joint advice (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 21:28:45 -0400; I wish I had a video of me trying to install u-joints. A true slapstick comedy with a 10" vise, a delrin block (so as not to damage the powder coating on the opposite side of the yoke) and a socket; /html/6pack/2004-07/msg00329.html (9,028 bytes)
56. Re: Differential Bearings and Trailing Arm Bolts (score: 1): Author: "Greg Dito" <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:22:01 -0400; The HB926 bolt is simply a standard 3-1/4 3/8" UNF (fine) hex jead bolt (HB = hex bolt, '9' = 9/16 hex head size = 3/8" thread size, and '26' is eighths of an inch = 26/8 or 3-1/4. Make sure you pur; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00088.html (8,893 bytes)
57. Re: Value Added Options & Upgrades (Part 2) (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 13:25:33 -0400; I agree too that exterior appearance can contribute more to the value of a car than hidden mechanical stuff. BUT, what is really a major factor in TR values, and any collector vehicle for that matter; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00133.html (8,642 bytes)
58. Re: Re: 140 MPH TR6 (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:14:50 -0400; WOW! What a deal! $15K for a mint cond TR6 like this one and only $3K-4K more to restore to original?! Gosh, how do I spend my $3000? New shift knob? Maybe a new top, although that two-tone is classi; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00168.html (7,843 bytes)
59. Re: front spring turret - i'm in big trouble (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 11:23:24 -0400; Don't give last rites just yet! If I understand your description of where the crack is, you're referring to the weld line that runs along the circular top edge of the 'box' section that is welded to; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00234.html (8,255 bytes)
60. Re: Re: 1968 TR6? (score: 1): Author: Greg Dito <dito9561@bellsouth.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 11:34:06 -0400; This is no 1968 TR6. TR6's were built starting in late 1968 as a 1969 model. In the same vein, TR250s were started in 1967 as a 1968 model. No different than what always has been done with new car mo; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00235.html (7,127 bytes)

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