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References: [ +from:btp44@aol.com: 226 ]

Total 226 documents matching your query.

81. Re: carb needle o-rings (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:01:57 EDT; Peter-It looks like the O-rings are 3/8" od X1/4" id X 1/16" th. Also known as AS568-010 Berry; /html/6pack/2002-06/msg00594.html (6,304 bytes)
82. Re: Brake Calipers!! (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 12:45:11 EDT; Nick-The 7/16" bolts are torqued to 75 ft. lbs. The 3/8" bolts to 45 ft. lbs. I believe the O-ring seals are made of ethylene propylene in order to be compatabile with brake fluid. Berry; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00034.html (6,259 bytes)
83. Re: Interior door trim (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:39:44 EDT; Dick-Thanks for the plug. This sketch for the waist clip tool has appeared in several manuals. Basically, it is an old hacksaw blade that has been heated to remove the temper and bent. Berry [demime; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00062.html (6,539 bytes)
84. Re: Just a little piece of useless information. (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:45:13 EDT; Robert-I think I would go with a larger threaded rod-maybe 1/2" or 5/8".; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00163.html (6,400 bytes)
85. Re: weird trany release (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:44:02 EDT; Mitch-In looking on the Buckeye website, Nelson says "1/2"-5/8" slave cyl piston movement.. My experience is that 5/8" is about the minium needed to release the clutch. However, your 1-1/2" seems exc; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00213.html (6,623 bytes)
86. Re: window rattles/carb rebuilds (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 00:05:32 EDT; Sounds like Walt needs a new window regulator and maybe channels. The channel material is available from Moss for $7.95 ea. (2 per window)if you want to save the expense of replacing the channel asse; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00214.html (6,880 bytes)
87. Re: K&N filters (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:53:01 EDT; Matt-The bolt pattern(and vent holes) is different for the SU vs ZS CDSE used on the TR6. If you already have the K&N filters for the SU's, an adapter plate could be made and riveted to the filter pl; /html/6pack/2002-05/msg00440.html (6,777 bytes)
88. Re: SU carb pics (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 21:57:38 EDT; Matt-Those carbs are H6s', probably from a TR3 or early TR4. The jet seals are cork and more prone to leak and the choke linkage requires a lot more effort to operate. Also, the carbs are about 1" th; /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00157.html (6,544 bytes)
89. Re: blue pouch - what's it for? (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 23:20:37 EDT; Skip-It's a tool pouch.; /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00159.html (6,235 bytes)
90. Re: gearshift lver - stiff reverse gate (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:04:57 EDT; George-If the pressure needed to move the lever to reverse has increased, try cleaning&lubing the retainer under the cap and the ball on the end of the shift lever. Often these pieces befcome dry and; /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00252.html (6,970 bytes)
91. Re: Installing Oil Seal in Timing Cover (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 16:01:10 EDT; Hugh-Take the measurements, or the old seal if it is not badly bent, to a bearing supply shop. Only a few thous. is necessary for an interference fit. Berry; /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00370.html (7,378 bytes)
92. Re: camshaft and tappets (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 00:16:35 EDT; Rob-A number of years ago, I changed the cam without removing the head. I think I did it by removing the pan, pushing the lifters up enough to clear the cam lobes and "cocking" in the bores to hold t; /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00403.html (6,777 bytes)
93. Fwd: TR-6 window waist seal (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:22:00 EST; Patrick-Here is a sketch of the tool that is made from an old hacksaw blade. Heat the blade to red to remove the temper. Berry Price [Unable to display image] Return-path: <Btp44@aol.com> From: Btp44; /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00030.html (7,595 bytes)
94. RE: Cracked diff mounts (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:13:23 EST; Maybe it is overkill, but when I repair a cracked diff mount, I cut an access hole in the rear deck above the right front mount, remove the old stud and weld the cracks usually found in the frame. Ne; /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00166.html (6,652 bytes)
95. Re: Cracked diff mounts (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:34:56 EST; Robert-Yes, it would be preferable to do repair with the body off, but that wasn't feasible. I used a die grinder&cut off wheel, being very careful not cut the emergency brake cable that lives under; /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00171.html (6,668 bytes)
96. Re: Lifting TR6 engine for cam removal (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:17:35 EST; Hugh-I rembering my experieces of changing the cam with the head in place, I found that I couldn't get the lifters through the head. The pan had to be removed, lifters pushed up to clear the cam, cam; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00153.html (7,499 bytes)
97. Re: Crankshaft end bolt removal (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:56:16 EST; Hugh-The bolt is right hand thread. If all else fails, get a socket and breaker bar, wedge the breaker bar against something on the drivers side of the car (preferably not painted sheet metal) , disc; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00156.html (7,166 bytes)
98. Re: bearings (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:06:30 EST; Bob-I have found that the best way to remove hub bearings is with a bearing separator. It is a split circular wedge that is clamped around the base of the bearing and can be used with a hydraulic pre; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00192.html (6,672 bytes)
99. Re: Valve Spring Tension & Head Thickness (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:04:11 EST; Hugh-Kastner's competition prep. manual states that the early 8.5 heads are 3.460". and the later (7.5&7.75) are up to 3.550" Berry Price; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00401.html (6,456 bytes)
100. Re: Rotor Thickness Specs (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:19:42 EST; Nelson-The spec for the min. rotor thickness is stamped or cast on the inside near the outside of the hub recess. Mine says ".450" min." Berry Price; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00492.html (6,643 bytes)

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