On Tue, 11 Apr 1995, Steven Marshall wrote:
> I have recently found a 1971 Spitfire parked in a barn for the last
> ten-twelve years. 41K total miles! Problem is the layup and the fact
> that when used the car resided at the end of a long gravel road.
>
> Since this is my and my SO's first restoration, we would like some
> advice regarding non-off-frame restoration. The identifiable problems
> are as follows:
>
> 1) Rusted out floor panel @ driver's foot area.
Not a major problem if the rust actually does not extend beyond the
footwell. Good quality replacement floors are available from The
Roadster Factory and others.
> 2) Some jerk pulled this car from the barn with a chain wrapped around
> the front crossmember and bumper - trashed both (torn & dented)
Parts are available. The bumper changed part numbers several times
between 1971-1979, but I think they are all basically the same. The
crossmember, etc., is also available, but you might be able to cut one
off an otherwise trashed Spitfire. Again, they are all pretty much the
same from 1871-80.
> 3) usual interior trashed - new seat covers,carpet, general upholstery
> necessary.
This can add up!
> 4) dirty engine compartment!!! Spider webs, wasp nest,
Doesn't sound like a real problem, unless, like mine, your SO (or you)
is afraid of said thingies!
> 5) someone's homemade attempt at fixing the gravel dings...so bad they
> could have done better with a BRUSH!
Respray time?
> 6) Marker light chromes lost due to rotten rubber component...whoever
> designed this light should have had their paycheck revoked and put on
> the dole.
Chromes and rubbers are replaceable, and the next time you try to
remove, say, an old Volvo parking lamp lens held on by impossibly small,
rusted, fine thread, stripped-head screws, you'll thank the Lucas gang
for making these easy!
> 7) Front Spoiler/valance missing
No spoiler originally on the '71, only a small valence panel between the
black underriders on the bumper.
> 8) The absolute worst differential ratio available...tach out damned
> near at a dead stop.
The original would have been 3.89:1, not as bad as you might think. It's
actually fairly useful to get 1,600-1,700 pounds of car around with
about 60 hp. available from a stock engine.
> 9) Ugly...Ugly...Prince Purple Rain paint job.
Maybe not original? Do you know what the original color was? (The code
appears on the data plate on the driver's side door B-post.)
>
> Good side:
>
> 1) Good frame
> 2) Great engine
> 3) Solid body (except for floor as noted)
> 4) great tires
> 5) cost me almost nothing!
>
> Money is the usual problem, Divorced single parent finishing MBA at
> night, then doing the PhD death-march.
>
> Would like to know if there are any established sequence of
> restorations. I have some ideas and am planning a CPM (Critical Path
> Method) analysis (operations management concentration showing), but am
> always willing to learn from others experience....it's usually pretty
> good and REDUCES COSTS!
It depends on your final goal. If it were my discovery, I'd check on the
mechanical stuff first to make sure it can be made roadworthy. You've
not yet mentioned brake/clutch hydraulics. I'd think after a long
storage, it would be worth going through the systems completely,
rebuilding or getting new parts as needed. That alone could be $200-300
or more. Naturally, you'll also want to flush and refill just about
everything that can be flushed and refilled, and tune up the engine.
That could be another $50-100. (I'm assuming you're doing the work
yourself.)
If this all goes well, and no other major replacement needs show up,
you're about ready to drive and enjoy the open air this season (oh,
yeah, do patch the driver's floor, at least temporarily ;-) ). Then over
the winter you could look at freshening up the cosmetics -- paint,
interior, etc.
Try to determine, as much as possible, what various tasks will cost
before committing to them. Repainting the car can range from $500-$5,000
(honest!); regardless of price, you might get what you pay for or much
more or much less. Complete engine rebuilds (if necessary, though you
say it sounds great) can exceed $2,000, again depending on the shop. I
could go on, but I won't.
The point I'd like to make is that you're not likely to ever MAKE money
restoring this car. You'll do it because you enjoy the car. Spend the
money now to make it safe and roadworthy. Then add the cosmetics later
(unless you can't stand to be seen in a tatty car; nothing wrong with
that, either!).
> Komura1@ixnet.com
> aka Steven C. Marshall
Good luck, Steven. Keep us posted, and don't be afraid to ask questions
here, or at either British-cars@autox.team.net or
Triumphs@autox.team.net, or individually to those of us who are replying
now.
Andrew Mace, Herald and Vitesse Consultant (and Spitfire fan)
Vintage Triumph Register
|