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Re: Rear brake bias MGBGT

To: RodsINTOMG@aol.com, vintage-race@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear brake bias MGBGT
From: Brian Evans <brian@uunet.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 09:58:57 -0400
The first thing that leaps to mind is that the left rear wheel cylinder is 
seized - that would cause the right rear to lock prematurely.  next is that 
the rear wheel cylinders have been changed at some point  and larger bore 
units have been installed.  this would cause the rear brakes to have more 
bias (I think it's smaller master/larger slave to increase pressure with 
more pedal travel).  I'd rebuild the rear cylinders checking the bore 
diameter is equal on both sides, and once I knew what the bore was I'd call 
an MG specialist to see if alternative bore sizes were available, perhaps a 
fitment from a different year or car model.

Brian


At 09:32 AM 04/25/2000 -0400, RodsINTOMG@aol.com wrote:
>Things seem a little slow on the list, so I thought I would throw this one
>out.  This question is not really vintage racing, but very close and I know
>someone out there has "been there - done that".  So here goes.
>
>My racecar is a 64 MGB tourer with a factory hardtop.  The brakes work fine
>on this car.  Everything is stock except for carbon-kevlar pads up front and
>a 1968 dual master cylinder.  On this car the bias (front to rear) is about
>right,  If anything the rear brakes are maybe a little under pressured, but
>that okay because it works and there are no surprises.
>
>   My road MGB is a 1967 GT with the stock single system master 
> cylinder.  The
>bias on this car is all screwed up.  Too much braking on the rear, so that
>when you get into a panic stop situation, the rears lock and you get to make
>this big u turn.  Also, Ive noticed that the right rear will lock and skid
>the tire in normal driving.  I would like to make this car right and have
>considered several methods or degrees to acomplish this.
>
>1. Install the steel braided hoses like I have on the racecar on the fronts
>only, its said to inprove bias slightly
>2. Install carbon-kevlar pads on the front brakes, $125 a set and not sure if
>practical for the street, should also be done with new rotors, cajing another
>$75.
>3. Install a brake bias adjuster on the rear brakes.
>
>I have inspected the brakes on the rear and everything is assembled
>correctly.  Im using silicone brake fluid, but I don't think thats the
>problem - I use it on all my cars, 52 td and 59 mga.
>
>Opnions welcome
>
>Rod Schweiger


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