I have one original clevis from my Merlyn Mk6A - it's a piece of .100" steel
bent in a "U", with a bolt through it to fasten through the upright. At
least it came with the car - I'm not positive it's actually original. We
made up clevis' machined from solid with a through rod threaded on both
ends. The clevis has room for a nut inside the "U", nuts are grade 8 Nylocks.
Suspension loads on FFords, compared to other cars, are quite low, and the
designs are way over-engineered compared to modern cars. I'd say that
execution of the design is more important for the clevis that worrying about
is it machined from billet 4340, etc.
Brian
At 09:30 AM 3/30/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Larry
>
>I appreciate your input - my phrase "piece of bent steel" was a bit
>light hearted and has upset a few people - sorry. I do appreciate the
>importance of the clevis bolt [and in fact every piece of suspension].
>
>I was simply basing my recommendation on the Lola design which has stood
>the test of time for over 1/4 century now [up to and including F5000 and
>DFV sports racers] and which we have replicated several times. At one
>time Lola went to a one piece machined from solid clevis bolt but
>quickly reverted to the fabricated design.
>
>One very important element of the Lola design is that the bends in the
>steel have a radius and are not sharp corners [which would of course be
>stress raisers].
>
>I'll be taking a look at the first Titans I can this spring!
>
>I do agree that if you don't know what you are doing on suspension parts
>- then don't.
>
>Derek
>
>
>Larry Best wrote:
>>
>> Roger/Derek,
>>
>> The clevis used on Formula Ford suspension is one of the most critical
parts of
>> the assembly since it locates the upright, and has a direct effect on the
>> alignment of the rear of the car. As such, this is one part that you will
want to
>> avoid making yourself. Having been involved in FF for 22 years and having
been a
>> passenger in one with a broken lower clevis, I can assure you that the
potential
>> damage to your car, the upright, and you is not worth the trouble of
banging one
>> out of a piece of bar stock and a bolt.
>>
>> For reference, Michael Schindlbeck is a recent Midwestern Council of
Sports Car
>> Clubs CFF Champion. Mike has been racing Titan MK6's his whole career and can
>> attest to the importance of the clevis, and may be able to point you toward a
>> source for these items since they are highly stressed and prone to breakage.
>>
>> Good luck and stick to 2 wheel (front) steering.
>>
>> Larry Best
>> Chicagoland Sports Car Club
>>
>> Derek Harling wrote:
>>
>> > Don't know specific design of Titan clevis bolt but obvious solution is
>> > to make one from a 3/8 bolt and a piece of bent steel. Braze or weld
>> > bolt through bottom of steel "U" - may need to extend depth of U to
>> > accommodate bolt head. You get a better thread form this way as well.
>> >
>> > You could also braze washers inside side arms to increase rod end
>> > clearance but loose washers work equally well - just a bit fiddly to
>> > assemble.
>> > Derek
>> >
>> > Karnopp, Roger J wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I'm in need of the clevis bolt for the rear upright on my Titan MK-6
Formula
>> > > Ford. The bolt or stud end is 3/8 x 24 with a grip of 2.5" and a thread
>> > > length of 1.0". A 3/8 rod end fits into it so there is a 3/8" hold
and the
>> > > opening for the rod end is ½".
>> > >
>> > > The stud end on one my current clevis bolts is bent and will not push
into
>> > > the upright. I've heard of people repairing these by cutting the
stud off
>> > > then drilling and tapping and inserting a new stud. Not sure if this
is a
>> > > safe repair.
>> > >
>> > > Roger J. Karnopp
>> > > MK-6 Titan FF
>
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