Greg,
I did something similar on my TR4A last year (forgot to include this in the
list I sent you, as well as "mounted electric fan on the shock tower cross
member".)
I used a Facet/Bendix "silver top", rather than the solid state Facet, mostly
because I had never used one before and was hoping that it would be somewhat
quieter than the solid state on on my GT6+. It is - to the point that I can't
always tell whether I reset the kill switch.
I mounted it on the short vertical panel under the rear shelf behind the
driver. I think that running the fuel line up the frame on the driver's side is
the right thing to do - I'd worry about heat on the exhaust side, and more to
the point, the effect of a fuel line leak.
I removed the stock fuel pump from the block and made up a blanking plate. I
didn't like any of my regulator/filter options until I looked at a friend's
ALFA; it had just the thing! A small combination glass bowl filter and pressure
regulator, designed for an engine fed by sidedraft Webers. The local ALFA
boneyard turned one up for $35, and a slight modification to my blanking plate
mounted this guy where the stock pump used to be. I routed the fuel line behind
the engine, just in front of the battery, and then to the carbs.
An alternative, especially for your SUs, is to route the fuel line above/behind
the battery, along the inside of the fender, to a Holley regulator mounted on
the fender proper. This regulator is adjustable, has a gauge port, and has two
outputs, so you could run a line to each carb individually. Put a filter
upstream of the regulator.
Braided fuel lines are probably overkill for a street application, but go for
it if it makes you happy. The hardest part will be adding proper fittings to
the SUs. I also worry that the rubber inside the braided steel will age-harden
(as normal good-quality fuel hose does) from engine compartment heat, but you
won't notice it and think to replace it. With the unprotected hose, you notice
right away. Also be sure to protect the braided line from anything it might rub
against (because it *will* rub through).
Be sure to put in a kill switch as a cheap anti-theft device (mine is a long
bat-handle toggle switch mounted near the steering column under the dash) and
some sort of automatic fuel cutoff. I've used both the "impact" switch that
Moss and others are flogging for $60 (works fine, is kind of cheesy, and the
contacts/wires are *way* too small for the kind of current a fuel pump takes)
and the oil-pressure activated one (works well, requires an oil pressure tap,
which I did when I changed from nylon line to braided stainless to a bulkhead
fitting through the firewall - made a perfect place to tap the switch in).
While you're in there, consider running a piece of 3" or so ducting from the
radiator shroud up along the fender, with the exit just even with the forward
carb. This will supply cool air to the carbs and keep your regulator cool (if
you put it there). Not quite a cold airbox, but much cheaper and easier.
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