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Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in
different performance levels. Standard, heavy duty and adjustable. Typically
he would like your old shocks as cores. He would evaluate the original shocks
and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not. Sometimes the
original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in the
main casting, rendering them not rebuildable.
I have the adjustable shocks on my TR3 and they are great. It's just a bleed
valve plumbed to the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores.
Reducing or increasing the flow to slow or speed the action.
Dave H.
> On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison <gene@garrison-grafixx.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ouch!
>
> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to
> recommend what I (eventually) did.
>
> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear
> shocks not "shocking". I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to
> never see any cracks. But it always worried me. Then, a few years back, I
> started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple
> Hydraulics? Could look it up when I get home.) And I figured I'd give it a
> try. And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>
> Just a thought for when you get to that point.
>
> - GeneG
>
> On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
>
> > I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974
> > TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to
> > sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the
> > spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
> > finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed
> > the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after
> > market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss
> > parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm
> > wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I
> > installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure
> > on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out
> > there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be
> > attempted.
> >
> > That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the
> > cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and
> > I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really
> > don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my
> > local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something
> > that can be fixed that way?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> > Virus-free.www.avast.com
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> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
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> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> > * TR6 broken support.JPG
> >
>
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<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color:
#333333;">
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Peter Caldwell at
World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in different
performance levels. Standard, heavy duty and adjustable. Typically
he would like your old shocks as cores. He would evaluate the original
shocks and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not. Sometimes
the original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in
the main casting, rendering them not rebuildable. </span>
</div>
<div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family:
helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">I have the adjustable
shocks on my TR3 and they are great. It's just a bleed valve plumbed to
the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores. Reducing or
increasing the flow to slow or speed the action. </span>
</div>
<div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family:
helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
</div>
<div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family:
helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave H. </span>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison <gene@garrison-grafixx.com>
wrote:
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Ouch!
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to
recommend what I (eventually) did.
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear
shocks not "shocking". I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to
never see any cracks. But it always worried me. Then, a few years
back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks
(Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up when I get home.) And I figured
I'd give it a try. And I'm very, very happy with the results.
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Just a thought for when you get to that point.
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
- GeneG
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort
it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare
tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave
up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw
that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount
adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that
cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount
replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a
bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that
there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me
just how a fix should be attempted.
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I
have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't
like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro
welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be
fixed that way?
</div>
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<strong>Attachments:</strong>
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<li>TR6 broken support.JPG</li>
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