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Ouch!
Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to rec=
ommend what I (eventually) did.
Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the re=
ar shocks not "shocking". I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate=
to never see any cracks. But it always worried me. Then, a few years =
back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever sho=
cks (Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up when I get home.) And I figure=
d I'd give it a try. And I'm very, very happy with the results.
Just a thought for when you get to that point.
- GeneG
On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the =
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decid=
ed to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw =
that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck.=
When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end =
and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where=
the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with=
the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them=
. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever sh=
ock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too muc=
h pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some =
folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fi=
x should be attempted.
>=20
> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the=
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years,=
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I =
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking th=
at my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really s=
omething that can be fixed that way?
>=20
> =20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
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> *Attachments:*
> =E2=80=A2 TR6 broken support.JPG
--19e43cfb7a8e47a49c83fa4f395be5ab
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE html><html><head><title></title><style type=3D"text/css">#qt a=
img{border-top-width:0px;border-top-style:none;border-top-color:current=
color;border-right-width:0px;border-right-style:none;border-right-color:=
currentcolor;border-bottom-width:0px;border-bottom-style:none;border-bot=
tom-color:currentcolor;border-left-width:0px;border-left-style:none;bord=
er-left-color:currentcolor;border-image-outset:0;border-image-repeat:str=
etch;border-image-slice:100%;border-image-source:none;border-image-width=
:1;}=0A#qt li[style=3D"text-align: center;"],#qt li[style=3D"text-align:=
center; "],#qt li[style=3D"text-align: right;"],#qt li[style=3D"text-al=
ign: right; "]{list-style-position:inside;}=0A#qt {font-family:"Segoe UI=
";font-size:12pt;}=0A#qt .qt-_em_placeholder::after,#qt .qt-_em_placehol=
der::before{color:gray;}=0A=0A</style></head><body><div>Ouch!</div><div>=
<br></div><div>Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, bu=
t I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.</div><div><br></div><div>=
Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the re=
ar shocks not "shocking". I put on a similar adapter, and was fort=
unate to never see any cracks. But it always worried me. The=
n, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuil=
d the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up when I get =
home.) And I figured I'd give it a try. And I'm very, very h=
appy with the results.</div><div><br></div><div>Just a thought for when =
you get to that point.</div><div><br></div><div>- GeneG</div><div><br></=
div><div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:</div><blockq=
uote type=3D"cite" id=3D"qt" style=3D""><div>I have been hearing a slapp=
ing sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter eve=
n slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought =
I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing =
hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on si=
mple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw t=
hat the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount=
adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and t=
hat cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame memb=
er. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone=
through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.</div><=
div><br></div><div><div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only o=
n the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills =
in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done an=
ything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on=
, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?</div><div><br=
></div><div><div> </div><div><br></div><div><div><br></div><div><br=
></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><div id=3D"qt-DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB=
-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><div><br></div><table style=3D"border-top-width:1px;=
border-top-style:solid;border-top-color:rgb(211, 212, 222);"><tbody><tr>=
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ange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt=3D"" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" styl=
e=3D"width:46px;height:29px;"></a><br></td><td style=3D"width:470px;padd=
ing-top:12px;color:rgb(65, 66, 78);font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, Hel=
vetica, sans-serif;line-height:18px;">Virus-free.<a href=3D"https://www.=
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<div><a href=3D"#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" heigh=
t=3D"1"></a><br></div></div><div>** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@auto=
x.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **</div><div><br></div><div>Dona=
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iv><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><b>Attachments:</b></div><ul><li>T=
R6 broken support.JPG</li></ul></blockquote><div><br></div></body></html=
>
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