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simplest puller ever
https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1
<https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1>
for this style (just a simple pic grab) have never found a seal it
wouldn't pull right out one handed
ptegler
On 11/24/2020 10:05 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> Dave-
>
> I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is
> getting the old seal out.� Pick your favorite method, but I've settled
> on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years�ago
> which has worked well as a seal puller.
>
> Basic steps:
>
> 1) Unbolt driveshaft
> 2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut
> 3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange
> steady, and remove the castle nut.
> 4) Pull the old seal.
>
> The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of
> the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.
>
> 5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider
> putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
> 6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex
> 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.
> 7� Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.� Since there
> is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued
> back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of dave
> <dave@ranteer.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
> *To:* triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] rear seal
>
> Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a
> TR3/4/4a engine.
>
> Mine leaks a lot and I�d like to at least slow it down.
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net
--
Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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<p>simplest puller ever</p>
<p><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1";>https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1���;
<br>
</a></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>for this style (just a simple pic grab) have never found a seal
it wouldn't pull right out one handed<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>ptegler<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/24/2020 10:05 PM, Randy and
Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DM6PR19MB31303108B46AEE443E8EC652B9FA0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<style type="text/css" style="display:none;"> P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Dave-</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job
is getting the old seal out.� Pick your favorite method, but
I've settled on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a
couple of years�ago which has worked well as a seal puller.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Basic steps:</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut�</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the
flange steady, and remove the castle nut.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
4) Pull the old seal.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge
of the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal
loose.��</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged
consider putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or
KWK99149 Timken)</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used
Permatex 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe
or socket.��</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
7� Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.� Since
there is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just
gets torqued back to factory settings (I think the factory
manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy�</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Triumphs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";><triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf
of dave <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:dave@ranteer.com";><dave@ranteer.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
<div>�</div>
</div>
<div style="word-wrap:break-word" lang="EN-US">
<div class="x_WordSection1">
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear
seal on a TR3/4/4a engine.</p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
�</p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Mine leaks a lot and I�d like to at least slow it down.</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net";>ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com";>www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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