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Thanks Dave, I was thinking about Joe too. Joe, how about it?
Bill
=20
From: DAVID MASSEY [mailto:dave1massey@cs.com]=20
Sent: Wednesday, February 5, 2020 7:26 AM
To: aljlthomson@charter.net; bill_beecher@flash.net; =
triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
=20
A couple advisories about using RTV that I have picked up over the =
years. =20
=20
Not all RTV sealants are the same. Some are oil resistant and others =
are not. "Automotive" RTV may not be oil resistant and are intended for =
sealing windshields and such. Check the manufacturer's website. Ultra =
Black, I believe, is oil resistant. None, as far as I know, are =
gasoline resistant.
=20
When using RTV sealants, apply an even bead and assemble the parts =
loosely and let the sealant partially set before tightening. This will =
reduce the tendency for the sealant to ooze out strings and =
dingleberries which can clog the oil passages in the engine causing all =
manner of expensive problems.
=20
When using RTV in the absence of a gasket lay a piece of thread or =
string along the joint to prevent metal-to-metal contact ensuring that =
there is a layer of sealant at all points along the joint.
=20
=20
As for me, I prefer to use Formagasket #2 on one side to stick the =
gasket (more or less) permanently to one part and Hylomar non hardening =
to allow for easy removal/resintallation. Until Joe Alexander produces =
a silicone sump gasket I will continue to do so. ;-)
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net =
To: 'bill beecher' <bill_beecher@flash.net =
Sent: Tue, Feb 4, 2020 7:18 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
I have had good results with Permatex =E2=80=9CUltra Black=E2=80=9D =
gasket maker. Part # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was =
only Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly =
pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars =
travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a different product for dark color =
cars travelling east with 4 cyl. engines, etc., etc. The choices on the =
rack at the local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the =
varieties of Loctite that you can buy.
=20
I have found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer =
available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only =
alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another =
casting =E2=80=93 in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When =
there is a pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know =
that there will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface =
which will require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and =
other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop becoming =
entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and other =
places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am repairing =
somebody=E2=80=99s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV =
sealer inside of a compartment. I=E2=80=99m sure that many leaks are the =
result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to a =
previous =E2=80=9Cmechanic=E2=80=9D overtightening bolts. =E2=80=9CIf 20 =
ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be better=E2=80=9D Unless you have =
access to a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to =
determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the =
shop, I would use the surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a =
makeshift surface plate when checking small parts for flatness.
=20
Alex Thomson
=20
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
bill beecher
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
=20
Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering =
about the best sealer. My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side =
of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this? BTW, =
both surfaces are in excellent condition.
=20
Thanks,
Bill
TS30800L
=20
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Thanks Dave, I was thinking about Joe too.=C2=A0 Joe, how about =
it?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Bill<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
DAVID MASSEY [mailto:dave1massey@cs.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, =
February 5, 2020 7:26 AM<br><b>To:</b> aljlthomson@charter.net; =
bill_beecher@flash.net; triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[TR] Oil Pan Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>A couple advisories =
about using RTV that I have picked up over the years. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Not all RTV =
sealants are the same. Some are oil resistant and others are =
not. "Automotive" RTV may not be oil resistant and are =
intended for sealing windshields and such. Check the =
manufacturer's website. Ultra Black, I believe, is oil =
resistant. None, as far as I know, are gasoline =
resistant.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>When using =
RTV sealants, apply an even bead and assemble the parts loosely and let =
the sealant partially set before tightening. This will reduce the =
tendency for the sealant to ooze out strings and dingleberries which can =
clog the oil passages in the engine causing all manner of expensive =
problems.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>When using RTV in =
the absence of a gasket lay a piece of thread or string along the joint =
to prevent metal-to-metal contact ensuring that there is a layer of =
sealant at all points along the =
joint.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>As for me, I prefer =
to use Formagasket #2 on one side to stick the gasket (more or less) =
permanently to one part and Hylomar non hardening to allow for easy =
removal/resintallation. Until Joe Alexander produces a silicone =
sump gasket I will continue to do so. =
;-)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Dav=
e </span><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></=
p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>---=
--Original Message-----<br>From: Alex & Janet Thomson <<a =
href=3D"mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net";>aljlthomson@charter.net</a>><b=
r>To: 'bill beecher' <<a =
href=3D"mailto:bill_beecher@flash.net";>bill_beecher@flash.net</a>>; =
'Triumphs' <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><b=
r>Sent: Tue, Feb 4, 2020 7:18 pm<br>Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan =
Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p><div id=3Dyiv5478696345><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>I have had good =
results with Permatex =E2=80=9CUltra Black=E2=80=9D gasket maker. Part # =
82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex #1 =
which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it =
seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 6 =
cyl. engines, a different product for dark color cars travelling east =
with 4 cyl. engines, etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the =
local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the varieties of Loctite =
that you can buy.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'> </span><span=
=
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>I have found that =
many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available from anyone =
and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only alternative. Sometimes, it is =
one casting being sealed against another casting =E2=80=93 in those =
cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover =
being assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much more of a =
chance for a warped or bent interface which will require a thicker bead. =
But we all know that many engine and other drivetrain problems are the =
result of excess gasket goop becoming entangled into suction screens, =
bearings, oil galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very =
nervous when I am repairing somebody=E2=80=99s tractor or whatever and I =
see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a compartment. I=E2=80=99m sure =
that many leaks are the result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, =
tappet covers, etc. due to a previous =E2=80=9Cmechanic=E2=80=9D =
overtightening bolts. =E2=80=9CIf 20 ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be =
better=E2=80=9D Unless you have access to a granite or cast iron surface =
plate, it can be difficult to determine if an oil pan is warped. Years =
ago when I was teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big =
table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when checking =
small parts for flatness.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'> </span><span=
=
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Alex =
Thomson</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'> </span><span=
=
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div id=3Dyiv5478696345yqt88667><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Fro=
m:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> =
Triumphs [<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:triumphs-bounces@a=
utox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>bill beecher<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Triumphs'<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan =
Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>&nb=
sp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Rep=
lacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering about =
the best sealer. My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side of =
the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on =
this? BTW, both surfaces are in excellent =
condition.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>&nb=
sp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Tha=
nks,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Bil=
l<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>TS3=
0800L<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></div><div =
id=3Dyqt73689><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p> </o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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