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There are 8 nuts for the manifolds - 4 across the top, one each at the
front and rear of the exhaust manifold down a bit lower and a pair under
the manifolds.
You can see the studs for 6 of them here, the rear exhaust bolt is under
the rear bracket at the bottom. The front exhaust bolt goes through a
hole just above the little ear on the left of the water pump.
http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0117.JPG
I'd be nervous about the rope trick if you want to keep the liners in
place. I think that's better used if you're going to do a full rebuild
so will be removing liners later. An alternate version is a way to hold
valves in place while they are serviced with the head on the engine though.
I've always needed to pull the rocker shaft to get to the head studs
under the rocker shaft, but if you can remove them without pulling the
rockers that's OK too. I'd be happier with the rocker shaft off and the
pushrods pulled out (be careful doing that so you don't pull out a
tappet - although with the head off it's easy to put the tappet back).Â
There are 10 head bolts / studs.
Cheers, Tony
On 9/2/2019 9:51 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Thanks for the tip. Is there a total of eight nuts holding the
> manifolds on? I've only removed the top 4 so far.
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:38 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com
>
> On the manifold, not much concern about loosening the liners when
> you take the manifold off, manifold shouldn't be stuck with all
> the nuts off, a little leverage or soft pop with a lead hammer
> should take it right off.
>
> Your main concern RE the liners popping loose is turning the
> engine, pulling the head off or jockeying it around shouldn't
> loosen them up, friction from rings on liner sliding up might.
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 9:25 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1@gmail.com
>
> Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines? What was the
> weekness of this idea?
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech@flash.net
>
> Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000. I
> donâ??t worry about any sequence for loosening, for
> tightening use the sequence in the book, after
> tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs
> through the sequence until you get to the specified
> 105ftlbs.
> Bill
>
> Sent from my IBM 8088
>
> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey
>
> Gotcha! I may be dumb but  I I am dumb, but,Iâ??m no
> dummy, I donâ??t have an aluminum head on my motor. Do
> theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do they?
> Anyway theyâ??re out of my price range.
>
> Â As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,Â
> I got to thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for
> loosening these head nuts . Â Metal bends, You know.
> Perhaps that is more critical for something like
> aluminum heads.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net
>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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<p>There are 8 nuts for the manifolds - 4 across the top, one each
at the front and rear of the exhaust manifold down a bit lower and
a pair under the manifolds.</p>
<p>You can see the studs for 6 of them here, the rear exhaust bolt
is under the rear bracket at the bottom. The front exhaust bolt
goes through a hole just above the little ear on the left of the
water pump.</p>
<p><a
href="http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0117.JPG">http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0117.JPG</a></p>
<p>I'd be nervous about the rope trick if you want to keep the
liners in place. I think that's better used if you're going to do
a full rebuild so will be removing liners later. An alternate
version is a way to hold valves in place while they are serviced
with the head on the engine though.</p>
<p>I've always needed to pull the rocker shaft to get to the head
studs under the rocker shaft, but if you can remove them without
pulling the rockers that's OK too. I'd be happier with the rocker
shaft off and the pushrods pulled out (be careful doing that so
you don't pull out a tappet - although with the head off it's easy
to put the tappet back). There are 10 head bolts / studs.</p>
<p>Cheers, Tony<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/2/2019 9:51 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFU8DPtNq+eJi3q-q+t7bSArwAFZzmZshVQ2DPHn5Pi=vYjmyg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Thanks for the tip. Is there a total of eight nuts
holding the manifolds on? I've only removed the top 4 so far.<br>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:38
PM Greg Lemon <<a href="mailto:grglmn@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">
<div>On the manifold, not much concern about loosening the
liners when you take the manifold off, manifold shouldn't
be stuck with all the nuts off, a little leverage or soft
pop with a lead hammer should take it right off.  </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Your main concern RE the liners popping
loose is turning the engine, pulling the head off or
jockeying it around shouldn't loosen them up, friction
from rings on liner sliding up might.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Greg Lemon</div>
<div dir="auto">TR250<br>
<div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 2, 2019,
9:25 PM Paul Dorsey <<a
href="mailto:dorpaul1@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">dorpaul1@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">Why don't more cars have wet sleeve
engines? What was the weekness of this idea?</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 2,
2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey <<a
href="mailto:dorpaul1@gmail.com"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">dorpaul1@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">Thanks! <br>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 2,
2019 at 9:18 PM <a
href="mailto:Wbeech@flash.net"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">Wbeech@flash.net</a>
<<a href="mailto:wbeech@flash.net"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">wbeech@flash.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Yes, Moss
carries an aluminum head, about $3,000. I
donâ??t worry about any sequence for loosening,
for tightening use the sequence in the book,
after tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps
of 20ftlbs through the sequence until you get
to the specified 105ftlbs. <br>
Bill<br>
<br>
Sent from my IBM 8088<br>
<br>
On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <<a
href="mailto:dorpaul1@gmail.com"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">dorpaul1@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
Gotcha! I may be dumb but  I I am dumb,
but,Iâ??m no dummy, I donâ??t have an aluminum
head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads
for our motor or do they? Anyway theyâ??re out
of my price range.<br>
<br>
 As I was loosening the bolts that hold the
head on, I got to thinking, I wonder if there
is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .Â
 Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more
critical for something like aluminum heads.<br>
<br>
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