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If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rust
usually breaks up fairly easily but removing original material might be a
lot to ask a full size, generic bit to do at such a length. I would dread
the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think there would be
less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.
Alex Thomson
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Brewer
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages
So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4.
The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened
and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180" diameter. I've been trying to
find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5"
long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3". I could pull the small
end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit
the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help
it.
I have been considering buying a 12" long 3/16ths (.188") drill bit and
running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might
not be a bad thing.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-D
rill-Bit/74680.uts
Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?
TIA,
Bill Brewer
Tehachapi, CA
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a =
slightly undersize bit. Rust usually breaks up fairly easily but =
removing original material might be a lot to ask a full size, generic =
bit to do at such a length. I would dread the thought of a drill bit =
breaking of in the hole. I think there would be less chance of breakage =
with a slightly undersize drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Alex Thomson =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid =
#B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Bill Brewer<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening =
Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> So I am rebuilding a =
Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods =
have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, =
but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the small end bushings =
were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding =
rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while =
turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured =
out. The hole is about 0.180” diameter. I’ve been trying to =
find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out =
better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about =
5” long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3”. I =
could pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but =
the bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather =
not mess them up if I can help it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> I have been =
considering buying a 12” long 3/16ths (.188”) drill bit and =
running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which =
might not be a bad thing.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><a =
href=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Po=
int-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12=
-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a><o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> Has anybody else =
been here? How did you get by this?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> =
TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> Bill =
Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'> Tehachapi, =
CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></body></htm=
l>
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