triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [TR] OD Transmission problem - suggestions?

To: Rye Livingston <ryel@mac.com>, "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] OD Transmission problem - suggestions?
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 18 May 2016 15:46:29 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <ed4e573c-8a59-47f5-8881-b246bb2411ac@me.com>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/45.0
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============3556281584465862105==
 boundary=------------A014AF4EF9EBE661043D306E

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------A014AF4EF9EBE661043D306E
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

which O/D?  (LH, A, D, J?)

400lbs is not 'high'.... spec vs what works best vary ...let alone what 
actually works correctly vs the condition of the springs

At a minimum on j types.... unless you have it under full load there is 
no way to validate the Annulus clutch (outer ring of the planetary gear 
assy) is not slipping.

Not slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil level and viscosity. Some say 
80-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebuilders switch to 
non-detergent straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the same viscosity, 
its the additives that are different. I've seen synthetic work great, 
and have seen disasters using syn.  PAYOR .   when I put one together 
(10? 15 now?) , I usually will use 90wt (as my user manual specs) DO NOT 
use the 'smelly' stuff...the sulphur will eat the yellow metal.

Interlock switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a little flex 
to have the lever NOT flip the interlock switch correctly......

In most cases (if installed) simply removing the fiber washer between 
switch and case (no fear it won't leak), will extend the push button tip 
far enough into the case to activate correctly. Often the washer is too 
thick, so push button throw position is slightly off, and even the 
button tip worn down so it does not activate as designed.

Also clean and dielectric grease every elec connection in the path 
(while you're in there.)

ptegler


On 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston wrote:
> My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great.  This 
> past weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County drive up around 
> Sonoma, along the coast through Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all 
> around.  440 miles over two days.
>
> Now the problem
> When I rebuilt the engine I also purchased an OD transmission and had 
> it rebuilt.  I think I wrote about this before so I apologize, but I'm 
> dropping off my car with British Motorsports later today, who rebuilt 
> the transmission, and they are going to try and figure out the problem.
>
> Since day one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on the gas 
> or coasting.  If I'm accelerating it will not shift into OD until I 
> let up on the gas.  Once in OD and am cruising along, especially in 
> 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it will drop out of OD just like an 
> automatic transmission.  Then when I let up, it will shift back into 
> OD.  Obviously doing this under increased load or torque.  It will 
> also do it in 4th gear, just not as easily.  , just not as easily. 
>  When getting to a hill and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will 
> downshift out of OD.  Then crest the hill and let up, and it will 
> shift back into OD.
>
> A few weeks ago I dropped the car off with British Motorsports so they 
> could diagnose the problem and the hydraulic pump is over 400psi, the 
> clutch is not slipping, the solenoids are working fine.
>
> I know there will be a lot of suggestions which I plan to forward the 
> emails to them, and am hoping there will be something they haven't 
> checked yet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rye
>
> PS: For those of you who are at all curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the 
> drive.  Here is a link to the photos I took.
> https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com

--------------A014AF4EF9EBE661043D306E
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <p>which O/D?  (LH, A, D, J?)</p>
    <p>400lbs is not 'high'.... spec vs what works best vary ...let
      alone what actually works correctly vs the condition of the
      springs<br>
    </p>
    <p>At a minimum on j types.... unless you have it under full load
      there is no way to validate the Annulus clutch (outer ring of the
      planetary gear assy) is not slipping.</p>
    <p>Not slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil level and viscosity. Some
      say 80-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebuilders switch to
      non-detergent straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the same
      viscosity, its the additives that are different. I've seen
      synthetic work great, and have seen disasters using syn.  PAYOR
      .   when I put one together (10? 15 now?) , I usually will use
      90wt (as my user manual specs) DO NOT use the 'smelly' stuff...the
      sulphur will eat the yellow metal.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Interlock switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a
      little flex to have the lever NOT flip the interlock switch
      correctly......</p>
    <p>In most cases (if installed) simply removing the fiber washer
      between switch and case (no fear it won't leak), will extend the
      push button tip far enough into the case to activate correctly.
      Often the washer is too thick, so push button throw position is
      slightly off, and even the button tip worn down so it does not
      activate as designed.</p>
    <p>Also clean and dielectric grease every elec connection in the
      path (while you're in there.)</p>
    <p>ptegler<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:ed4e573c-8a59-47f5-8881-b246bb2411ac@me.com"
      type="cite">
      <div>My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great.
         This past weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County
        drive up around Sonoma, along the coast through Tamales Bay,
        Bodega Bay and all around.  440 miles over two days.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Now the problem</div>
      <div>When I rebuilt the engine I also purchased an OD transmission
        and had it rebuilt.  I think I wrote about this before so I
        apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with British Motorsports
        later today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are going to
        try and figure out the problem.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Since day one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on
        the gas or coasting.  If I'm accelerating it will not shift into
        OD until I let up on the gas.  Once in OD and am cruising along,
        especially in 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it will drop out
        of OD just like an automatic transmission.  Then when I let up,
        it will shift back into OD.  Obviously doing this under
        increased load or torque.  It will also do it in 4th gear, just
        not as easily.  , just not as easily.  When getting to a hill
        and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will downshift out of
        OD.  Then crest the hill and let up, and it will shift back into
        OD.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>A few weeks ago I dropped the car off with British
        Motorsports so they could diagnose the problem and the hydraulic
        pump is over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, the solenoids
        are working fine.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>I know there will be a lot of suggestions which I plan to
        forward the emails to them, and am hoping there will be
        something they haven't checked yet.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Thanks,</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Rye</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>PS: For those of you who are at all curious, we had 16
        Triumphs on the drive.  Here is a link to the photos I took.</div>
      <div><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&amp;sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs";>https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&amp;sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs</a></div>
      <div> <br>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Paul Tegler
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net";>ptegler@verizon.net</a>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="http://www.teglerizer.com";>www.teglerizer.com</a>
    </div>
  </body>
</html>

--------------A014AF4EF9EBE661043D306E--

--===============3556281584465862105==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline


** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

--===============3556281584465862105==--

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>