> Charging according to my voltmeter (replaced the old ammeter with one) at 15
> amps.
How did you read 15 amps on a voltmeter??
> Test shows that at startup
> without shorting the cutout switch, the cutout switch fails
> to engage. Now I know where the problem is.
I would suggest going a bit deeper than that. At startup, the cutout relay is
'looking' at the voltage the generator produces
without external field current. Once you mash the cutout contacts closed, the
battery supplies the field current. So a weak
generator can cause exactly the same symptoms.
> Moss indicates regulators don't come nicely adjusted, unless you spend extra
> to buy that feature. Is this really necessary?
Only if you want it to work right. Since not working right can damage the
generator and/or the battery, even the body from the
battery throwing acid out the vents; it seems kind of important to me.
But the adjustment procedure is not difficult at all, so why not try it
yourself? Better yet, try cleaning the contacts and running
through the adjustments with your old control box. That might be all it needs.
Here's an old Lucas document that includes on-car tests and adjustment
procedure.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffNTc3ODkwYzAtYjRlYS00NDNmLWI0YTYtNjY5ZjQxZTA2NGFm
PS, one big disadvantage of using only a voltmeter with a Lucas generator is
that it won't tell you if the generator is putting out
enough current to cook itself. 30 amps even into a fully charged battery will
only produce about 15 volts; but is enough to kill
the 19 amp generator fairly quickly.
Randall
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|