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Art:
It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that you w=
ill find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the frame=
. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at=
first glance it looks like the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just=
the tube that is welded. That's my recollection, at least.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
ogeco.ca>> wrote:
What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0<http://x.jtrk=
1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nX=
zA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223&p=3D1&t=3Dh&h=3Db60c1dc7799=
37842d1b11854076cb5a7>
@ca.rr.com>> wrote:
My method:
Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka =
setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)
Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks b=
eforehand.
Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.
Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the=
little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of th=
e pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out =
as far as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) b=
ut the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. =
I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.
Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've always succee=
ded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>
If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstall=
ation, it will pop right out next time.
-- Randall
[http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
biontechnical.com
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<head>
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<div>Art:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that =
you will find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the =
frame. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, =
so at first glance it looks like
the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just the tube that is welded. T=
hat's my recollection, at least. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Mike<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen <<a href=3D"mailto:amcewen2@cogeco=
.ca">amcewen2@cogeco.ca</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div></div>
<div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><a href=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20v=
cy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=3D5442752742&d=
=3D737223&p=3D1&t=3Dh&h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">htt=
ps://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div>
<div><br>
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <<a href=3D"mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr=
.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>My method:</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers=
(aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br>
<span>but double-check that)</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several w=
eeks beforehand.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. </span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (a=
nd the little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br>
<span>about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the=
head of the pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best</sp=
an><br>
<span>lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pi=
n out as far as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque</span><=
br>
<span>(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull agai=
nst) but the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable</span><b=
r>
<span>spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin =
falls out. I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they=
</span><br>
<span>were looking worn.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've al=
ways succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's</span><br>
<span>actually easier than taking the body off <g></span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before rei=
nstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>-- Randall </span><br>
<span></span><br>
</div>
</blockquote>
<img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223"; alt=3D"">=
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span></span><br>
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