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What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
https://www.drop=
box.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0
> On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 =
PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> My method:
>
> Hardened al=
l-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers=
) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
> but double-check that)
>
>=
Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks be=
forehand.
>
> Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.
=
>
> Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and=
the little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread
> about 4" long, a=
nd use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin. Remove the=
nuts, lube the threads with the best
> lube you've got, then use the setup =
washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow. Took=
a bunch of torque
> (I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the ca=
r to pull against) but the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable
=
> spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. =
I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
> were looking worn.=
>
> Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've always =
succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
> actually easier t=
han taking the body off <g>
>
> If you grease the pin up good with copper-=
based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.
>
=
> -- Randall
>
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div></div><div>What happens if somebody has=
welded the old pin in place?</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://x.jt=
rk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nX=
zA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223&p=3D1&t=3Dh&h=
=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0bt=
x/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div><div><br>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall=
<<a href=3D"mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote=
:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>My method:</span><br><spa=
n></span><br><span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened f=
lat washers (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</s=
pan><br><span>but double-check that)</span><br><span></span><br><span>Soak th=
e pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand=
.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threa=
ds in the head. </span><br><span></span><br><span>Find a suitable socket that=
will just fit over the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame). &n=
bsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br><span>about 4" long, and use double n=
uts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin. Remove the nuts, lub=
e the threads with the best</span><br><span>lube you've got, then use the set=
up washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow. &n=
bsp;Took a bunch of torque</span><br><span>(I used an extra-long box end wren=
ch and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything bro=
ke. Add a suitable</span><br><span>spacer and pull some more. Lat=
her, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. I replaced the nut & al=
l-thread once or twice, as they</span><br><span>were looking worn.</span><br>=
<span></span><br><span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH=
. I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's<=
/span><br><span>actually easier than taking the body off <g></span><br>=
<span></span><br><span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-s=
eize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br><span>=
</span><br><span>-- Randall </span><br><span></span><br></div></blockqu=
ote><img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223" alt=3D"=
"></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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