> I have tried two different bulbs - one is 12V45/40W the other
> is 12V65/55W
That's nowhere near enough to even talk about overloading the original wiring.
You've got something else going on, like poor
contact at the socket for the bulb, or a broken wire, or possibly a cracked
bullet sleeve. Since the wiring for both sides is
common up to the dimmer switch, the problem has to be somewhere between there
and the bulbs.
If you don't want to pull the headlight assemblies apart to access the pins,
then you could start at the bullet connectors near the
horns. Turn the lights on, then check what is actually being delivered to the
wires. Usually you can force the meter probes in
between the vinyl outer sleeve and the wire insulation, to touch the back of
the bullet without damaging anything.
Digital multimeters are so cheap (cheap ones are less than a quart of decent
oil), there is no excuse not to have one. Of course
you tend to get what you pay for, but even these are adequate for chasing "no
light" conditions:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
-- Randall
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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