While I agree with your efforts as far as consistency is concerned, I believe I
have read that you are generally supposed to take torque readings with all
threads dry.
Greg Lemon
---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> >What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten
> >to spec or just tighten to spec?
>
> Just to add to what others have said, I've finally found that the Head nuts
> that are outside the valve cover are dry as a bone, while those inside are
> nicely oiled. Backing off the "outside" nuts, then retorquing always
> finished with a screeching sound (I think Randal had a name for it). This
> last time, I oiled the studs outside so that they would be equally oiled as
> the studs inside and so they would torque evenly. Probably unnecessary, but
> I seemed to feel like I got a more accurate torquing of the normally "dry"
> outside studs.
>
> Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|