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Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe

To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 21:15:18 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1382732021.71010.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <20131025225408.Q3TT5.139935.root@cdptpa-web34-z02>
Thread-index: AQJ6h5NQaqQ6/TA8eELa4dKcPUbO+piuwZ6Q
Thanks.  It is different than the TR3 and uses a 45 degree elbow one piece
fitting.  I'll look tomorrow and see if there is clearance without the nut. I
think the stud is also in contact.  If not, then it is time for a little pipe
fitting as mentioned as removing the head seems a bit much for the sake of
pure originality.  Thanks, jim henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 6:54 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; James Henningsen
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe


---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> moss says its same part as the TR3.

Must be some mistake.  The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits
on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head.  Totally different
setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube.

I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover,
there will be enough room to install the elbow.  If that doesn't work, then
your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and
regular (female-to-female) elbow.  Removing just the one nut should be safe;
as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the
engine.

Randall

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