> When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
> takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
> O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
> capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.
So in other words, it doesn't engage if you push on the arm on the solenoid
side?
Assuming that is the case, have you checked that the off-side arm has it's
hole lined up with the hole in the case, when the solenoid is engaged? I have
had trouble on several occasions with the pinch joint that holds the solenoid
arm to the operating shaft slipping over time. It has to be tightened really
tight to withstand the pounding from the solenoid, which is hard to do with
the original pinch bolt and nut.
Last time it happened to me, I machined a nut that would lock into the arm (so
no wrench needed) and used a fine thread SHCS (aka Allen head bolt) for the
pinch bolt so I could really reef down on it. (Knowing that replacement arms
are cheap :) ) I'm not saying you should do that necessarily, just
emphasizing the problem as I see it.
(This is a mockup using some damaged OD parts from the bin, not my actual OD.
The taper on the nut is to keep it from hitting the solenoid mount.)
http://goo.gl/OcXHco
If the hole does line up, then you may have enough wear inside the unit that
the hole is no longer accurate. See Nelson's article on the Buckeye Triumphs
site for the "ball lift" method of adjustment.
> Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
> motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?
As long as the plunger is picking up, that adjustment is close enough.
Randall
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|