Hi Tim:
A very Canadian suggestion,,, despite your location. :^)
The material is ideal I think. Alas, hockey pucks are not big enough to cover
the space required.
I had lots of interesting responses from the list. I going to have a go with
some PVC planking that Cliff Davies(a nearby list member) has volunteered.
I'll keep my eyes on it for stability, since I'm not sure how the conditions
will affect the stuff. Still, I think the load is only about 25 lb/sq. inch,
so I'm hopeful that nothing too untoward will occur.
Cheers and thanks again to the almighty list!
Mark
1972 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Hutchisen [mailto:hakhutch@roadrunner.com]
Sent: June-10-13 7:28 AM
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
Mark,
Try hockey pucks. Stiff durometer, waterproof.
Tim Hutchisen
Norway, ME
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 1:48 PM
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC question
>I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.
>
> I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4
> aluminium
> pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
> Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
> them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks
> and
> the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
> something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor
> will
> be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the
> boat)
> and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.
>
> I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
> resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?
>
> Mark
> 1972 TR6
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