Tim,
I have no opinion on roll bars, but I have heard it mentioned on this
list and forums that classic insurance companies will not insure a car
with a roll bar.
Again, I have no experience with roll bars so this may be BS.
But, it wouldn't hurt to check with your insurance underwriter first.
Bob
On 10/26/2012 12:23 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a roll
> bar. From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very little
> added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame. One of
> my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that, but Hard Dog
> doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not finding any other one that I can
> afford. I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with
> a single loop spanning both seats with bracing that provides four mounting
> feet and two additional diagonal braces. It looks just like the one Moss
> sells. Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty
> back plates with no frame mounting. I'm wondering if the back plates under
> the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges. I had a local
> welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential mount
> early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
> different a job. Maybe I could even work out a template for new back plates
> that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame. So, my
> question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a hair
> brained idea? I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet rather
> than all four this way may not give enough strength. What do you think?
>
> Tim Gaines
> Clinton, SC
> 1974 TR6
> 1980 Spitfire
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