And check the ground strap between engine and chassis, unless you're happy for
the choke cable to perform that role?
Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/
>________________________________
>
From: Mike Welch <spitfire at freebacon.net>
>To: Bob Labuz
<yellowtr at adelphia.net>; Tim Purdy <timipurdy at citlink.net>
>Cc: TR List
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, 16 January 2012, 1:45
>Subject: Re:
[TR] TR4 Question
>
>Don't forget to check the physical ground cables by
feeling for sponginess. My Spit had a similar problem a few years ago.
Continuity and resistance where it should be. Hit the started and everything
would die until moving the ground cable around. The ground cable was clean on
both ends, no corrosion at the terminal ends. A section in the middle was
corroded, felt like sand under the insulation.
>
>Mike Welch
>Colorado
Springs, CO
>'69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2
>'69 Honda SL350
>
>-----Original
Message----- From: Bob Labuz
>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 3:46 PM
>To: Tim
Purdy
>Cc: TR List
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Question
>
>Tim,
>
>I would start
out with the 2 primary ground connections, the one from
>the battery to the
firewall and the 2nd from the left front of the
>engine to the frame. Insure
connections are clean and tight. You should
>have metal on metal. When I did
my 4 a few years back, I soldered a
>copper washer to the firewall where the
ground attaches. I always insure
>it as well as the cable end are bright and
shinny. The ground on the
>engine and frame should be metal to metal, no
grease, paint etc.
>
>Then I would look at the battery connection to the
solenoid. Same there,
>clean and tight. Third the Lucar connections on the
solenoid itself.
>They may be oxidized from higher than normal current flows.
Also they
>should be very tight. You might have to squeeze them a bit. The
wire
>that runs the solenoid (white / red I believe) may be the problem.
>
>Then inspect the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Same procedure,
>clean and tight.
>
>The only thing left is the starter ground itself. If all
else fails,
>remove the starter and clean with a wire brush down to the metal
the
>area where the starter attaches to the engine block and the starter
>itself. Right down to bare metal.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Bob
>
>On 01/15/2012 05:22
PM, Tim Purdy wrote:
>> It has been a long time since I have had to post a
problem so guess I have
>> been very fortunate.
>> Here is the
situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but
>> provide details as
well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few
>> things I never
replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery
>> installed in
October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one.
>> Installed, turned
right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning,
>> clicks, nothing.,
actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid.
>> Several more
attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and
>> there, not a
problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board
>> meeting, that
went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20
>> degrees, but it
starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more
>> clicks, and
blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to
>> start. I
did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch.
>>
Any ideas, as I am clueless.
>> Tim
>
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