Hi John,
Not to be contrary to one of the more experienced, but I had received
guidance from another leather expert also on the technique I used. He
mentioned paring but reserved the technique to those with much experience as
it could be devastating to those you had little or no experience as it could
result in too thin, uneven or punctured leather. Using water aids in
increasing pliability of leather and further allows for the use of thicker
hides. The problem comes with tight bends as I indicated and this requires
patience.
I forwarded pictures to Keith of my technique and the resulting finished
product. It has been over 5 years and the leather finish looks as good as
the day it went on with no release, bulging or creases. My leather came from
Heritage Upholstery who use the real thing.
I guess there are more ways than 1 to "skin" a cow.
Best regards,
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gillis" <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 4:39 AM
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [TR] TR3A leather trim
> Thought I might feed into this one. I have been working with leather for
> 25
> years, albeit in the conservation of medieval manuscripts. But I am aware
> of
> the technical nature of the product. Firstly I would suggest you carefully
> examine the leather on offer. I found it really difficult to get "real
> leather" much of what is out there is either re-constituted scraps or so
> heavily machine grained and surface coated as to be hardly recognizable as
> leather at all. You can buy proper vegetable tanned skins with minimum
> surface
> coating from The British Hide Company, they took over the Connolly Hide
> business, including stock of leathers.
> As regards working with leather, I would definitely NOT recommend soaking
> in
> water, this will have long term effect on the fibre structure which will
> embrittle and fail. The trick is pare the flesh side of the skin, which
> can be
> reduced quite radically where it has to be folded around complex shapes
> and
> where it is turned over edges. You can buy purpose made leather paring
> knives
> form bookbinders supply shops, I make my own from high speed steel machine
> hack saw blades. You need a very flat surface and a VERY keen edge. A
> piece of
> marble works well as a base. Once you have practiced on scraps and got a
> feel
> for how to work the knife, then all the trimming becomes less daunting.
> Contact adhesive is what you need for this kind of work, and you can get
> one
> that gives you some "positioning time", it is the usual rule; start from
> the
> centre and work towards the edges. I am always amazed why paring has not
> been
> part of the upholsterers techniques. I trimmed all my interior in leather,
> not
> correct I now realize but will have
> Regards
> John
>
> John Gillis
> (Senior Conservator)
> Library Conservation TCD
> Electronic mail to, from or within College may be the subject of a request
> under the Freedom of Information Act
triumphs@autox.team.net
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