All,
A couple of ideas/questions:
1) I did some more thinking about the conundrum of my old original
headlights being "inadequate", and the fact that I have a couple pairs of
driving lights on a shelf, and the fact that my generator for my TR4A is
only good for 22 amps. I don't have enough generator capacity to keep up
with two 55W headlights, and two 55W driving lights, as well as running
lights, ignition, and occasionally a heater fan. 55 Watts = 4.6 Amps Four
bulbs simultaneously = 18.3A with 3.7 amps left over
Sensible people here on the forum suggested that I get some good modern H4
headlights. I got some from BUSDEPOT.COM. They have arrived. They are
labeled "motorcycle" on the glass, but I presume they will be fine for
automobile use as well. I got the 60/55 bulbs to go with them. I have some
new 100/55 bulbs intended for a long gone car, but never used. I was
thinking that I could use a 100/55 bulb in ONE of the lights, almost like
what they did on the old days with having ONE driving light (and one fog
light) (I never understood why they used ONE until I thought of the power
limitations, a 22A generator can only power one extra 55W bulb without
brown-out).
What do you think about using one 100W high beam and one 60W high beam
bulb? I doubt I will actually do it, and it is a pain in the neck to pull
the leadlight out of the bucket to change the bulb just to test 100W on one
side....
2) I will upgrade the wiring to properly supply the new lights. I want to
have the upgrade as invisible as possible for concours shows, but I want the
relays (and fuses?) to be reasonably easily accessible. I think it makes
good sense to have the relays near the headlights, rather than under the
dash so that there are short runs from the relays to the bulbs. So...
where should I put them? Randall put them under on the bottom of a
headlight bucket, and that is well hidden, but not too accessible.
Suggestions?
3) To fuse or not to fuse. Right now I am thinking that I will put type I
auto-resetting circuit breakers piggybacked to the relays. One breaker for
both high beams, and a separate one for both low beams. This protects only
the relatively short runs from the relays to the bulbs. The big hot wire
coming from the voltage regulator A1 terminal won't be fused. Due to its
length and location, I'd guess that one is at more risk of shorting. But I
REALLY REALLY don't want to put any sort of fuse on the single main power
supply to all the forward facing lights! Maybe a BIG fusible link.
Something like 50A. If I were to draw 50A long enough to blow the fusible
link, then I had a serious problem, and I was going to lose the lights
anyway. Suggestions?
4) What connectors should I use when I need to branch a single wire to two
wires. The original harness uses bullet terminals and 4-way connectors to
go to the high and low filaments. These have always seemed to me to be
prone to corrosion and bad connections. But the new connectors from British
Wiring are stainless steel, so I suppose they are less prone to corrosion.
Should I pack them with dielectric grease to seal them from the elements?
If I use bullet terminals, should I solder or crimp, or both? It would be a
bit of a waste of money to buy a $50+ crimper if I am going to solder
anyway, but I like a GOOD crimped connection.
5) How is the ground connected for the headlights on the 4A? I haven't
looked hard at the stock wiring to see how the ground is handled. Do the
two grounds from the bulbs meet at a bullet connector,and then where does it
go after that to get to a good ground?
-Tony
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