I've tried everything:
polished the jet tubes to a gloss,
replaced the cork jet seal washers with the neoprene ones,
changed the linkage arrangement from clevises straddling (TR2) the
levers to not straddling them (TR3 &4,
new choke cable.
But nothing allowed me to pull the jets (not the choke knob) to about
1/16" without just about breaking my fingers.
With the jet return springs disconnected and pulling it out all the
way was a piece of cake.
I heard that there is such a thing as age-hardening or stiffening
(something I could relate to at my age), especially with certain types
of hardened spring steel.
So I tested the (probably original and nearly 1/2 century old) springs
with a spring scale and found that it took 5 - 6 lbs. each to pull
them out 1/4'' beyond the in-place pretension point.
It only took less than 1.5 lbs to return the jets all the way back
up, so I replaced the old springs with 1 3/8" x 7/16" x .041 springs
from the local hardware store that I shortened slightly to get
sufficient pre-tension, which took about 2.5 lbs for the same
extension.
Result: I can pull the choke AND JETS all the way out without
breaking my fingers or the knob! And what a difference, not only when
I started it up when the temp was in the 40 ths (sorry, it is the
best I can do here in So. Cal.), but also how nicely it ran before
warm up.
The jets always returned completely to the seats with the choke pushed
back in. No gas leaks.
Does anybody know or have specs. as to what those spring tensions
should be?
Does anybody have any idea why the factory went from that straddled to
the non-straddled lever-clevis choke linkage with the TR3? It seems
illogical.
Hans
1962 TR#A
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