> I have always gone on the assumption that when re-torquing,
> it's best to crack the nut loose first, then torque, before
> moving on to the next nut in sequence. I've worried that I
> might get a false reading from it otherwise if the nut is
> quasi-frozen and I didn't know it. Probably overkill.
On the contrary, that's the right way to do it. But you can still note how
far it turned. I usually just check the markings on the socket, but you
could make a chalk mark (or similar) on the nut beforehand.
BTW, the factory was quite specific about checking Stag head bolts/nuts with
the engine cold. Since the Stag has aluminum heads (but steel bolts/studs)
that makes sense to me. Aluminum expands faster with heat than steel does,
so the fasteners will get tighter as the engine warms up.
-- Randall
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