OK, I've taken a shower and done for the day. Boy, it's messy working
underneath the car!
Here's a pic of the #2, center main and #3 bearings. I thought my oil filter
was better!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42214313@N05/3895000572/
Looks like #2 is only working on one side, and both main and #3 have
grooves. Not sure how this compares with other cars that have 40K on them.
BTW, the journals on the crank look mirror smooth, and all bearings are 020.
So, my shopping list is:
Oil Pump and filter screen
Sump gasket
Oil pump gasket
Connecting rod bearings
Main bearings
Plastigage (red?)
Do I need new rod and main bolts?
Aviation gasket goo.
Loctite? Which one?
I haven't pulled the front main bearing cap. Doesn't that have the front
engine support plate gasket glued to it? Hmmm. What am I getting myself
into?
Anything else I need? Besides a beer of course!
Johnnie
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 4:58 PM
To: 'John & Pat Donnelly'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Low Oil Pressure and Engine Noises
> Can I just remove the main
> caps and rotate the top one out?
Yup, that's the idea. Do them one at a time, so the crank is still
supported. I flattened one of the lower inserts and used it as a drift to
start the upper ones out a little bit. Then I was able to pinch the end
against the crank and turn the crank to roll it out the rest of the way.
> I seem to recall there was a notch on one side of the
> bearing that matched the cap/block so they wouldn't spin. Is
> re-install the
> opposite of taking them out?
Right again.
> And, if the bearings are oversized isn't there usually some
> sort of stamping on them (eg .01)?
Yup, generally the undersize in .001" (eg 010 or 020 etc.). However, I
would still suggest a final check with Plastigage, if you replace the
inserts. Call it cheap insurance.
Randall
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