Mark,
I've run into this problem before on some of my cars. My solution was to use my
spark plug anti-seize crayon to put some anti-seize on the tapered center hub
and on all the studs. It's not messy and it can take the heat of a spark plug
so it shouldn't run out on to your brakes.
You can find the anti-seize crayons with all the spark plugs at Crappy Tire
it's intended to keep spark plugs from seizing in aluminium heads.
Are you still happy with your Calgary DTS.
Doug Hamilton
1960 TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet
1997 Eurovan Camper
2005 Chrysler Crossfire
2006 Suzuki GSX 1200S
2006 Acura CSX
2008 Chev Avalanche
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 22:07:36 -0500
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper@digiscreen.ca>
Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
This week-end I performed the twice-annual ritual of the swapping of the snow
tires on my daily driver, a 2006 Cadillac DTS. The car has standard steel disc
brakes on all four points. The rims are chormed mags.
I ran into an odd problem seemingly rust related (on a totally un-rusted car).
I jacked up the first corner, undid all five wheel bolts on the first rim and
was then still completely unable to remove the rim by hand. Kicking very hard
did nothing at all, the rim seemed welded to the car. It took a 10-pound
sledge, a baulk of firewood and about 10 good hard whacks around the edge of
the rim to have it suddenly spring free, seemingly perfectly fine. The metal
surface (the centre of the brake disc) the rim was bolted to was indeed
lightly rusted, but not badly. I had to repeat the same performance for each
rim on the car.
I definitely want a solution in the spring when it comes time to re-install
the summer rims. Any ideas out there?
Mark Hooper
1972 TR6
2006 DTS
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