Anti-sieze. I always put it on center holes and sheel studs, and also on
the cones of lug nuts. And also (lightly) on the hub end before installing
a brake rotor or drum.
When lug nuts rust up tight on steel wheels (I know - not your problem, but
still...) the thing that usually requires the greatest effort to break free
isn't rusty threads but rather rust-selded nut-to-rim cones. I've done this
for many decades with no itll effects. However, be aware that torque specs
are usually for dry threads and cones, so check for lubricated specs or
adjust accordingly.
BTW - I did have one tire installer (in the 80's) remove all the anti-sieze
with solvent, and he still bitched about the anti-sieze being a safety
hazard. He made me sign a note on the receipt to the effect that I'd
applied anti-sieze, not him.
Karl
> Is there a solution to this problem? It seems that oil or grease on the
> surface would either evaporate from the brake heat, or much worse, just
> spread
> out and cause the brakes to fail. I thought of rubbing a bit of candle wax
> on,
> but it might end up the same way. POR might work, but I wondered if it
> would
> just end up being the same as epoxying my rims to the car.
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