Randall,
Can you explain more about the Chrysler style valve? What make model is it
off of and where are you suggesting it be mounted (in the inlet hose to the
heater maybe)? Not being hung up on originality, I'd just ditch the valve
and tie the hose directly to the block and operate the open/close function
by the Chrysler valve of which you speak!
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:43 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6
> Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve.
> Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come
> loose on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be
> tightened or is this the way these cables usually fail?
Bob, in my very limited experience, what happens first is that the valve
itself gets hard to move. Then the center wire buckles right at the
dashboard lever, producing the condition you describe. The temporary cure
appears to be to replace both the valve and the cable.
The permanent cure appears to be to re-engineer the thing using a different
valve. Although I have not tried it, I suspect you could leave the original
valve in place (open) and a dummy length of operating cable through the
firewall; then rig the interior lever to operate a Chrysler-style valve
hidden inside the passenger compartment. But it's just a thought since I
don't own a TR6.
Randall
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