Tom,
Try attacking the problem from the positive side of the battery versus
negative. Generally, previous owners will, over time, connect add-on
accessories
to the positive battery post or downstream from where the positive battery
voltage begins its journey throughout the wiring system. I've seen
"accessories" tapped onto the positive lug of the starter motor; it's very
common to see
accessories tapped onto the "hot always" spades at the fuse box - some of
these accessory wires are fused separately under the dash before reaching the
device they're intended for. If you find any add-on wiring anywhere in the
positive battery terminal wiring path or coming off of the "hot always" side
of
the fuse box, start removing the leads one-by-one to isolate the voltage
drain. Use your multimeter on the amps scale between the negative battery
post
and ground....you're looking for current (amps) drain not necessarily volts
to light a lamp.
I have a modern radio/CD player in my TR6 with an "always hot" clock
circuit. My battery current drain with motor/ignition off is in the milliamp
range.
Check your radio, door courtesy lights, trunk lights, after market under
bonnet lights, etc that may be staying on after you shut the motor off.
You should not have to resort to removing the negative battery cable or
using a cutoff switch whenever you park the car in your garage!
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
In a message dated 10/11/2008 12:19:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
TJBARILLA@COX.NET writes:
One by
one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing
light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have
happened
once all fuses were removed.
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