> Have checked and rechecked the adjustment for
> the proper free play.
Does the return spring always pull the slave piston home promptly?
> In terms of the clutch, I frankly don't understand the
> operational mechanics that well.
For the clutch to engage, the pressure plate clamps the friction plate
against the flywheel. Since the friction plate is attached to the gearbox
input shaft, while the flywheel and pressure plate are attached to the
crankshaft, this creates the connection to transmit power. The big springs
inside the pressure plate housing are what force the PP against the
flywheel.
Then to disengage, the fork and TOB carrier force the TOB against the levers
in the PP housing, which in turn lift the pressure plate away from the
flywheel and allow the friction plate to spin freely.
> Did check for a broken
> spring on the pressure and clutch plates, couldn't find one.
The springs on the friction plate are only to help reduce shock when
engaging the clutch. It would still transmit power without them.
But when you install the PP assembly to the flywheel, the PP should come up
against the friction plate well before the housing contacts the flywheel.
This is the part where the book mentions to tighten the bolts diagonally,
one turn at a time, to avoid distorting the housing.
> Used a pilot spline and am pretty sure the thing was lined up
> as supposed to be.
If not, you wouldn't have been able to install the gearbox. The friction
plate gets realigned every time you operate the clutch anyway.
> ISTR that there are grease fittings for the fork area that one
> has to be careful not to overgrease, or risk something of the
> type of symptom I'm experiencing? I think I was careful but
> who knows when you can't see it. Would spraying brake
> cleaner through the access panel with the clutch pedal
> depressed clean any film?
I think it's both very unlikely that is the problem, and that you could
improve anything by doing so.
BTW, are these all stock TR3 components, including the gearbox?
Randall
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