> is the TR3 clutch and pressure plate the same as the TR6?
No, not the same at all. The TR6 clutch can be made to fit a TR3, but
you'll need a different flywheel (or have yours drilled & tapped), and the
TR6-style TOB & carrier. The gearbox front cover also has to be shortened.
> If I look in the moss catalogue, individually they have different part
> numbers.
> But if you buy the all inclusive moss kit they have the same part number.
I'd guess you are looking at the TR4A kit (593-030), which is the same as
some(?) TR6. The TR2-4 kit (593-050) is different.
> Are they the same? Similar? better?
The TR2-4 clutch has more surface area and IMO will last longer (virtually
forever) in normal service. However it's also heavier than the TR4A-6
clutch, so some (including myself) have opted to switch to reduce rotating
inertia.
Other than lighter weight, it's hard to say the TR6 clutch is better in any
way; and in fact clutch problems seem to be MUCH more common on TR6 than on
TR3 ... which IMO is mostly due to ancillary problems rather than the clutch
design itself. (See for example Brent Kiser's article stating everyone is
selling the *wrong* AP/B&B clutch for the TR6.)
But the stock TR3 clutch would be my choice for long, trouble-free
operation. I switched mostly because my aluminum flywheel was only drilled
for the TR6 unit (and used a LUK pressure plate to avoid the B&B issues).
Randall
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