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Re: [TR] removing rust in block

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] removing rust in block
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 23:39:06 +0000
Randall is, of course, right.  You can get away with a short cut.

I would (stubbornly) <G>  argue here that if you have the engine out, the 
engine on a stand, and the head off, you're a long way into a major overhaul.  
If you have rust as severe as you describe, I also wonder about the condition 
of the rings and bearings.  These are not expensive.  Why not replace them 
while you have the engine out, and take the crank in to be checked and the 
block in to be boiled? Given the amount of work that got you to this point, and 
the downtime it takes to get there, this may not constitute shipwright's 
disease as much as prudent prevention.  

Then again, if you don't mind removing the apron, pulling the engine, and doing 
all this again anytime soon, no problem.  Otherwise, why gamble?

O man, I HATE to have a different opinion than Randall!

:o)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> 

> > I'm assuming by you saying take it all the way down, you mean take the 
> > crank 
> > and pistons out. Is there an alternative way? 
> 
> Not if you're going to have a shop "boil it out", which I assume is what 
> Terry is talking about. Not just the crank & pistons, but EVERYTHING that 
> isn't part of the block casting must come off. That includes jackshaft, 
> water pump, various plugs, rear seal housing, oil pump, oil transfer 
> housing, etc. etc. The process involves dipping the bare block into a vat 
> of heated chemical, which may become trapped in any joints that remain (not 
> to mention destroying any alloys). 
> 
> Personally, I don't feel that is necessary. I've always just mechanically 
> cleaned and flushed as best I could and let it go at that. The main thing 
> is to be sure there is no pile of sediment in the back of the block. But if 
> there is, you should be able to loosen it with probes stuck down through the 
> coolant passages, and blow it out with compressed air or water under 
> pressure. I'd still plan on having the crank & pistons out, though, to be 
> sure none of the expelled crud finds it's way somewhere it shouldn't be. 
> 
> Randall 
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