A reply to #5, the rear "seal": Have Greg Solo at The Engine Room rework the
original aluminum pieces. Don't buy some repro parts. Greg will also lone
you the correct alignment tool. His tolerances are tighter than the
original. Also, drill two additional drain holes in the rear main cap. And,
yes, a Speedi Sleeve at the front.
Ed Woods
> Hi all
>
> I'm at the point of dealing with my broken crank engine. I've stripped the
> engine and liberated the good crank from the spare engine. I've discovered
> that:
> 5. I'm going to do my best to really seal up this baby. The last one I
> did,
> on another engine, ten years ago, puddles wherever I go. A speedi-sleeve
> at
> the front crank seal? On the rear seal, new but stock size "oil seal
> assembly," with well stuffed felt seals? I think I'll buy Moss's crank
> alignment tool to make sure everything is centered correctly. Any
> suggestions? Should I mate the front and rear caps with hylomar or
> something? Should the gaskets be dressed?
>
> Whoa, that's enough. Sorry to be so wordy.
>
> Many TIA
>
> John Howard
> 64 TR4 CT35800
> 65 TR4 CT38746
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