> > The water must stay in the radiator long enough to cool.
>
> And as the water cools in the radiator (and warms in the block) the
> rate of heat transfer from (or to) the water slows down.
>
> > If it moves too fast it will return to the engine too hot to help.
>
> And if it stays in the radiator (or engine) too long it will become
> too cool (or too warm) to help.
Intellectually I agree with the above but...
My rad got punctured a couple of years ago so I got it re-cored at a local shop
and had them omit the hand crank hole,
so theoretically I should have more cooling surface with 40 years less crud
built up on it.
My original 3-impeller water pump started sounded like a coffee grinder this
spring so I replaced it with a 6-impeller
unit (curved impellers too), so theoretically I should have more water flow.
More surface + more flow = better cooling right?
>From my detailed measurements based on the best available data (temperature
>gauge, co-driver happiness, post-drive beer
intake), my 3A is running considerably hotter then before. Any stop/go traffic
will send it above 200f, and unless it
ambient temperature is similar to it's native land (cold/damp) it won't come
down significantly once back out on the
open road. Prior to the upgrades this wasn't an issue.
I've tried bending the fan blades to get more pitch and am considering getting
a stone guard to help ensure the fan's
drawing the air through the rad and not around it. But if this global warming
thing is for real I'm seriously thinking
of selling the thing....
Art
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