Also, Allan, are you re-torquing the head when you're supposed to? I think it's
at 2K miles, but forget exactly when and it's too hot and humid (read I am too
lazy) to look it up.
Terry
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
> > I would appreciate advice and lister's expertise ... but I
> > don't want to
> > count the "ups" and "downs" to determine the answer
>
> Personally, I don't believe it makes much difference. It would seem that
> the gasket makers don't think so either, otherwise they wouldn't have
> redesigned with the extra oil hole, allowing it to be fitted either way.
>
> Most likely, IMO, you have something else wrong, besides which way the
> gasket is fitted.
>
> I fought head gasket problems on my TR3 engine for many years, until I
> finally happened to check liner protrusion on both sides. Turns out they
> were low only on one side (!) apparently due to a manufacturing defect in
> the original 1956 cylinder block. The moral is to check every liner on both
> sides, every time.
>
> Some other tips picked up along the way :
>
> Take a new hardware store nut and spin it down the studs. Should turn
> easily all the way to the bottom of the threads. If it binds about 2/3
> down, the stud is distorted and should be replaced.
>
> Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check that the head surface is flat,
> checking in several different places and directions. I've found that my
> ordinary carpenter's square is straight enough. You can double-check your
> straightedge if you find a low spot, by moving the straightedge and seeing
> if the low spot moves with it.
>
> The flat washers under the head nuts are special items and are important;
> hardware store washers are too soft and the wrong size. If yours are
> missing or wrong, replace them. I believe they are now available from TRF
> et al. Same goes for the nuts. I wound up with a set of 'tall' nuts from
> BFE, but the original spec nuts are fine, IMO. Just don't use hardware
> store nuts (even grade 8).
>
> Get an accurate torque wrench, and follow the sequence given in the owner's
> manual. I like to go in 3 steps, first all to 40 ftlb, then all 80, then
> all 105.
>
> BTW, the owner's manual specifies that the head gasket should be installed
> smooth side down.
>
> Randall
> (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows)
_______________________________________________
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
|