In a message dated 7/2/2007 12:27:48 AM Central Daylight Time,
jimhearn1@comcast.net writes:
> I just picked up a '74 TR6. I got a good deal but was unable to learn
> anything about what I had especially motorwise (got it from the son of the
> owner). It has 125 to 130 lbs in all six cylinders. The points look good
> and are gapped correctly. It starts up (not real easily), sounds good, but
> it won't continue running more than a second or two. I have a see through
> fuel filter and can see plenty of gas ready to go into the carbs. I am
> almost sure it is spark that it is losing.
>
> If I want to run a jumper from the battery directly to the coil to rule out
> the key switch and wiring, does it go to the positive side of the coil I
> do suspect the coil so it will probably get changed if the key switch test
> shows nothing. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Jim
>
Almost sounds like the ballast wire in the harness (the one that powers the
coil when the engine is running) is broken. The easy way to check that is with
a volt meter. With the key in the RUN position there should be either 6
volts or 12 volts (depending on whether the points are open or closed). If it
is
zero the wire is likely broken.
The reason it starts is because of the ballast bypass that is engaged during
starting. When the starter is energized 12 volts is applied to the coil
allowing the engine to start but as soon as the starter is switched off the
power
to the coil is via the ballast wire. If this wire is broken the car will start
and immediately die when the key is released.
Another possibility is the wrong starter or a mis-wiring of the starter. The
ballast bypass wire connection at the starter must go to a special contact on
the starter. If it is connected to the W/R wire the solenoid coil will
effectively shunt the coil power to ground and you will have the same symptoms
even
though the ballast wire is in fact intact.
Dave
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