In a message dated 6/17/2006 1:29:30 PM Central Standard Time,
willgray@vaxxine.com writes:
> Using the Haynes manual as a guide, I have so far successfully
> removed the right shock absorber, installed the recommended 6"
> threaded guides in the lower wishbone and securely supported the
> lower spring pan using a hydraulic jack. I am now attempting to
> remove the castellated nuts which attach the spring pan to the lower
> wishbone. I can do this with the nuts at the outer end of the
> wishbone (I have just loosened them so far) but I find the nuts at
> the inboard end of the wishbone are severely corroded to the extent
> that I can obtain no purchase on the split pins. I have applied good
> old PB Blaster, but the result has been that the studs now turn in
> the wishbone, instead of the nuts on the studs!
> I am considering actually withdrawing the studs and nuts together,
> but I can see that the studs are likely to foul the frame before they
> are free from the wishbone.. If I could get at them I would try
> cutting the studs, but there does seem to be any room to do that.
>
> Any suggestions? How far does the lower spring pan have to be
> lowered before the spring is decompressed?
Well past the top of the frame.
This is where using one of the spring compressors helps. With a spring
compressor you can compress the spring enough to bring the lower A-arm
horizontal
increasing the distance between the frame and the arm. Trying to do that
with a floor jack will only cause the car to raise up off of the jackstand.
You
may have to enlist the help of some hravy friends to hold dwon the car while
you raise the supension.
Once you get the nuts/bolts all off and start to decompress the spring you
will have to guide the spring pan away from the frame so that it doesn't catch
and come down crocked which is the best way to launch a spring across the room.
Not a pretty sight.
Dave
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