> 1) I screwed up and had to torque and untorque the Head 3 times, first due
> to a stud not fully home and sticking up too far and next to a
> forgotten rear
> engine lifting bracket. Each time great care was taken to follow the proper
> sequence Should I have concern about stretching those new studs? Any
> concern about the Head Gasket?
Nope, should be just fine.
> 2) What is the nominal setting for SU's? I am going to say seven flats? I
> had them screwed down a lot until the 3B was "Happy". But they look way off
> and not even at all so with the bad head I feel a need to start from
> scratch.
The initial setting is supposed to be 2.5 turns (15 flats) from full lean. My
approach has always been to set them to the engine, starting it with the choke
pulled and making preliminary adjustments as it warms up. Be sure it's fully
warmed up before making the final adjustment (or maybe even just a bit hotter
than normal). Use the "diddle" pins to lift the piston slightly, the mixture is
correct when the rpm lifts slightly and then falls back to the original speed.
Once you get a feel for it, and everything else is just right, this test is very
sensitive. If you can't tell the difference over two flats of the mixture nut,
something else is wrong. I wouldn't worry about the nuts not being precisely
equal, but if there is a big difference, there may be something else wrong.
Of course you need to center the jets and check for free piston movement before
even starting to adjust mixture.
> 3) I am assuming that the timing will be OK since I was careful to set that
> to the book. Is there anything I should be doing before I turn the Key?
Make sure there is coolant and oil in the engine. Perhaps you've never
forgotten it, but I sure have. Also be sure the rotor is inside the dizzy cap
where it belongs, they don't run so good with it laying on the fender.
Randall
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