> The exact dimensions of the difference isn't critical at this point. But
> the fact that it is different is important. But you say if different
> mounting holes are drilled into the frame it can work.
Just to be clear, the holes are not drilled into the frame. On a TR3, the rear
crossmember is a separate piece, just a flat sheet of metal roughly 10" by 5".
> With the information you give, the project sounds doable. Now to decide if
> it is worth while compared to all other options...
My personal opinion is that if you've ever driven a TR3 with a properly working
(and driven) A-type, there would be no question. Keep in mind that this is NOT
a 5-speed manual, but a 7-speed semi-automatic ! Want to pass someone on the
highway ? Hit the throttle, flip the switch and the front suspension is already
popping up while the guy with the Toy transmission is still fiddling with the
clutch & gearshift. 2nd OD is a perfect split between 2nd direct & 3rd direct
while the Toy just leaves you stuck in an uncomfortable no-man's land.
Of course if you just want to drive in parades ...
One other suggestion, if you have a TR3 or early 3A ... the TR6 shift forks &
rods can be assembled into the "dipstick" top cover. That lets you retain the
dipstick, which is convenient for checking and adding oil without having the car
on a lift. My gearbox is actually a "Frankenstein", with a TR3 top cover, TR6
main box and TR4 OD.
Randall
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