> HHHHmmm. I was not considering having the block boiled since I had not
> contemplated removing the engine unless I had to. The problem (blow
> by) I had been
> experiancing seems found with the condition of the rings and the one
> piston. If
> I was to pull the block then I'd have to address crankshaft and camshaft,
> that don't currently seem to exhibit any serious problem, which in
> itself is not
> a bad idea, just more involved (and $$$).
>
> Where and how does one draw the line?
That's kind of a personal decision, IMO. Lots of folks suffer "shipwrights
disease" where a minor repair turns into a frame-off restoration. Personally,
having been in a similar position, I just threw new liners & pistons in, along
with new rod & main bearings, and buttoned it back up.
With the liners out, you can clean the water jacket pretty thoroughly with the
block still in the car. Assuming you've been careful not to get any crud into
the exposed oil passages, they should still be clean. IMO having the block
boiled isn't worth the hassle of removing the front apron, etc.
One thing that might help you make a decision is to check the lift at the
camshaft. Mine is noticeably worn, which probably translates to somewhat less
power than a 'fresh' engine would make. Still ran pretty darn good though.
Kind of "ran out of breath" near 5000 rpm, which I blame on the camshaft.
Still, it would pull over 4500 rpm (indicated) in 4th OD and run there for
hours.
If you do boil the block, be sure to save the bushing that the oil pump drive
shaft rides in. Last I heard, they were NLA, and boiling would destroy it.
Randall
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