> I hear the relay click
> and I think I am getting power to the starter.
Why do you think that, other than hearing the click ?
My suggestion would be to hook up a test lamp or voltmeter directly to the
starter solenoid, across the input from the key and ground at the solenoid.
Then route the test lamp somewhere that you can see it from the driver's
seat, and drive the car with it installed. I made up a 10' length of lamp
cord with alligator clips on one end and probe jacks on the other, for just
this kind of testing. Don't use it often, but it's a very handy tool
sometimes, and cost very little to build. Radio Shack or your local
electronics shop should have the alligator clips and probe (pin) jacks. Or
order them on-line from the likes of Digi-Key.
> This is the car that likes to use up alternators too.
Any idea what fails ? If it's always diodes, then it might be your
jump-starting technique, or some other external electrical problem. I've
seen a bad connection at the battery terminal cause both symptoms, both
"click-nothing" and toasted alternator diodes (although not on a Triumph).
On my Chevy it was a loose nut on the ground connection and there was
actually nothing wrong with the alternator, it just couldn't charge the
battery through the bad connection, which would make contact when cranking
the engine and then break loose again when driving away. Voltmeter showed
everything was both hunky and dory ... which is why I prefer ammeters.
> Next will be the VE TR7 which occasionally will turn over but not
> start, no
> fire to the plugs! Let it sit for 5 minutes then it will fire?
> I have one of
> those factory Lucas constant energy replacement distributors on
> the bench for
> that one. Think I am on the right track there?
I know nothing about the Lucas CE dizzies but it sounds like you're moving
in the right direction. Again, I'd use the test lamp to be certain that the
input power is present when it doesn't work.
Randall - with a definite distaste for troubleshooting by replacing
components.
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