> I am thinking thru my wiring. From all of the diagrams it seems doable. I
> count about 15 connections from my wiring harness to the center instrument
> panel, speedometer and tach. I also count less than 10 internal wires going
> from gauge to gauge, switch or bulb. Are there special considerations,
> precautions that I should take into account?
Be sure to account for the ground for everything that needs one. The ground
wire for the fuel gauge (which needs one on a TR2-3) for example is frequently
missing. It will sort of work with the ground through the mounting clamp, but
it's not reliable. The factory diagram shows very few of the ground wires.
> Is soldering permissable?
Yes, if it's properly done. You want to have some strain relief though, as
otherwise the edge of the solder can form a fracture point. But IMO a well done
solder joint is more reliable than a crimp joint, at least of the sort that is
easily achieved in the field. (The nearest thing to an ideal joint is probably a
combination of crimp and solder).
> I've seen some units that have a stabilizer- is this necessary if I plan to
> convert it to negative ground in the future?
I assume you're talking about the voltage stabilizer ... it depends on the
gauge, whether it needs a stabilizer or not. Has nothing to do with ground
polarity. The original TR3A gauges did not need a stabilizer, but the later
cars do (including the nearly identical instruments used in early TR4s).
> Finally, does the green flasher indicator go on the left or right side
> of the fascia in my left-hand drive car?
Right, I believe. At least that's where my yellow one has always been.
Randall
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