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Re: TR3 floor pans

To: <FGFO1@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR3 floor pans
From: "Doug" <dougm1000@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2005 10:42:13 -0700
Frank wrote:

> so i have carefully removed the passenger floor from my TR3.
> i will not be taking the body from the chassis as they seem so happy
> together!
> the new pans, black in color with all the captive nuts (moss) have been
> painted, ground for the welds, weld through primed and ready to go.
> has any one fitted one of these with the body on the chassis?
> first attempt at getting it in place was at the end of the day. quickly
> frustrated i gave up.
> it appears that the front is longer than the floor opening. i am assuming 
> it
> goes under the firewall and one hammers and dolly it up the back of the
> firewall. looks like about a 1 to 1 1/2 flange? also looks like its going 
> to get
> caught up on the very bottom of the inner fender assembly?
> the outer side has to go under the a little 1/2 flap of steel that is part 
> of
> the B pillar.
> the back has to go under the rearmost floor panel.
> their is a lot of "goesunder" for a panel coming from the top?
> love to hear how you guys did it
> thanks
> frank fisher
> 58 TR3
> Temecula California

Hi Frank:

I have replaced both floor panels, and inner and outer sills on my current 
project and can offer some lessons I learned through this process.

I suggest leaving the body tub on the final frame and thereby you are 
building the body to mate your frame.  Remove only one panel at a time so 
the integrity of the tub is intact and the new panel is just being mated to 
panels fixed to the frame.

In order to install the floor panel you need to push it forward past the 
footwell and then slide it back so the back lip slides under the lip of the 
rear floor panel.  The only way that I was able to slide the panel forward 
enough was to slice the inner fender horizontally where the lip of the inner 
fender joins the inner fender and then allow the panel to slide in the new 
area enough to get it under the rear floor lip and then push it back under 
the rear floor panel.  After the floor was installed and welded I welded the 
lip from the inner fender back together.

In the two panels I installed, I aligned the front of the panel with the lip 
on the footwell, like the original panel was, and plug welded it to the 
footwell panel lip.  The rear floor panel lip wound up being about 3/4 inch 
under the lip of the rear floor and did not need to be trimmed from the 
bottom.

Being an amateur at this I measured and checked and rechecked much more than 
I probably should have but the end result worked fine.  I strongly suggest 
using a metal support cage inside the body tub to help keep things in place 
and to help keep good door gaps.  Roger William's book, "How to Restore 
Triumph Tr2, Tr3, & Tr3a" describes this process well and on page 49 there 
is a good picture of the support door brace.

Doug

1962 Tr3B in about 175 pieces.

, 




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