I also used pop-rivets, I also put small washers on the side where it went
through the wood so the rivet would spread against the washer and have less of
a chance of pulling back through the wood. Where the rivets would be covered by
the upholstry material I pounded the end of the rivet down flat agaist the
washer and filed down any sharp edges.
Maybe you told me to do that, Jim.
Bob
-------------- Original message --------------
> Terry,
>
> When I restored the seats in my TR3 I found that the original wood strips
> were completely shot. I replaced them with some strips I cut out of a piece
> of 3/16" plywood that I had lying around. I cross-cut the strips about 1/2
> way through the thickness of the plywood so that I could bend it without it
> breaking and them used pop rivets it to fasten it to the seat pans. I used
> blue steel carpet tacks to hold the seat kit in place just as the original
> was.
>
> The results were outstanding!! This was about 5 years ago and they are still
> perfect!
>
> Jim
> Jim Bauder
> '68 TR250, CD47L
> TR web site: http://www.triumphowners.com/647
> (Coming home from the body shop Saturday!!)
> Scottsdale, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Smith
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 8:57 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Seat Recovering
>
>
> Hello, everyone.
>
> I'm on vacation this week. The weather is hot outside, for New Hampshire,
> so
> it seems a good time to get outside and recover my TR3A seats. I've already
> restored the seat pans, so my first question involves the wood strips.
>
> Is floor luan plywood acceptable for these? (That's the stuff that goes
> underneath a ceramic tiling project.)
>
> I'm searching for a good web page describing the reuphostery process. An
> recommendations on that?
>
> Thank you all yet again.
>
> Terry Smith
> '59 TR3A. Body still off. Rest mostly done.
> New Hampshire.
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