OK, here is my 2 cents (opinion)
Never re-use nylock nuts
Back them up with Loctite Red (thread locker)
Wrench them as tight as you can
Check them every time you grease the car
I just had to have a custom drive shaft made for Rosey, because
none of this had been done to her for a very long time by the DPO.
30, 40, 50 year old Automobiles need care, tender loving care, if you
give it to them ... they will give it back!!
>I'm glad Randall piped up about the relative strengths of the socket head
>cap screws.
>My experience and (limited) research agrees with his assertions.
>
>As for the usefulness of using a SHCS for the driveshaft bolts . . .
>
>Even if I couldn't get any sort of ratcheting type of wrench on the socket
>head end . . . (which I'm not conceding as of yet mind you)
>A stubby hex (Allen) wrench would still be an improvement.
>I figured you'd get a bigger swing arc on with the hex wrench.
>So the Allen wrench stays engaged in the socket head bolt while the open
>ended crescent wrench on the nut side is just engaged and disengaged as
>needed to loosen or tighten things up.
>
>Any more swing in the arc is fewer strokes to take the self locking nut off
>of the things.
>
>Speaking of locking nuts, I've had nylocs on the driveshaft work loose on
>me too.
>I have also used the all metal locking nuts (deformed nuts that bind) and
>I'm sure those won't work loose.
>However I wasn't thrilled with their lack of re-usability.
>
>So now I'm wondering about using regular nuts, a spring loc-washer and
>removable strength loctite.
>(applied to new clean fasteners of course)
>
>Any opinions on that setup?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>BTW . . Socket Head Cap screws are the way to go for mounting the lever arm
>shocks.
>On some of those things, there's just no room to get a socket over a hex
>head bolt / nut.
--
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper
1971 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA
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